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Routes in Rico Suave Buttress

Good Old Days, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grit and Bear It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not on the First Date S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nude Brute S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Out of the Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Preparation H S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rico Suave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Thoughts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Tammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trouble in Paradise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 12,453 total · 94/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Awesome line up the super blunt arete.

The Classic of the area.

Belay from the trail at the base of the arete. Scramble up the boulder the out the airy start to clip the first bolt. Continue more or less straight up with loads of hand-foot matches and balancy moves between jugs that are always just out of reach.

Location

On the obvious blunt orange arete right on the trail mid-buttress.

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchors.

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.10a
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10a
It's a classic for a reason! We climbed it when it was wet (I thought this guy was supposed to stay dry?), I ended up climbing it to save some draws. The wetness made it pretty nerve wracking, but it was still a lot of fun. Fell once a little below the roof because my hand just slipped off a wet sloper. Still a little tweaked about that one. Can't wait to try it dry.

EDIT: Got back to it finally (8/9/15), sent it easy. Great climb. Mar 15, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
It stays dry when there's a straight downpour- like in the late spring and summer. With misty, wind-driven rain, and with the added water of melting snow runoff, almost everything was wet- even routes like this one that are notoriously dry when everything else is wet. It is a sweet route though. Mar 17, 2015
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
"Rico's Dry" - Roger Apr 10, 2017

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