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Routes in The Pinnacle

Afternoon Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Cat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reverse Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vertex, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,087 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

P1: Take the chimney all the way up, or escape right. One number 6 Camalot extended (and one small cam if you elect the traverse) for protection. Not really R rated. The anchor can be seen easily from the bottom of the first pitch.

P2: You can either solo the short face left of the roof up to the next pair of bolts, or you can start right, climb up to a roof and traverse over if you'd like to protect it. Very short pitch.

P3: You can either climb a slightly overhanging jug haul, or you can move a bit right at the short arete to top out. Belay from the tree at the top.

Descent: If you're sitting under the tree, look over the lip to your left. There are a pair of bolts and rings just over the edge. Make sure you use caution rigging your rap. It's a straight shot down a mostly free-hanging rappel. Use a 70 just to make sure.

Location

After you pass under the bridge, where Fayette Station road turns into Rt. 60/90, look for a pulloff under a big rock overhang. If you park here, it's less than a five minute walk back the direction you just drove to get to the Pinnacle. You can also part at Junkyard. It's a few extra minutes of walking back down the road, but it's not far at all. The Pinnacle is small and the route is obvious. Just walk around either side and you'll see it.

Protection

If you have Big Bros and don't want to run it out, bring them. Otherwise a #6 Camalot fits about halfway up the first pitch. A small cam will fit in if you traverse right out of the chimney to top out the first pitch. A selection of singles from hand to finger size, and a set of stoppers will be more than adequate for this one.

Two glue-ins at the top of the first pitch. Bolts, links and rings at the top of the second, and you can use the tree to belay at the top. There are two bolts/links/rings just over the lip to the left of the tree (if you're facing the bridge) to rap down to the bottom. It's been said that a 60m rope reaches the ground, but make sure. If you have a 70m, just bring it so there's no doubt.

Photos

Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
From the top anchors a 60m easily touches the ground between the slabby boulder and the pinnacle itself. Tie knots in your ends regardless. Have fun! Aug 24, 2017
MojoMonkey  
 
Fun climb and a great adventure for a newer climber. Nice view sitting on the top. I did it in 2011 and we rapped off with a single rope which I'm pretty sure was a 60m. Think I could see the ground as I lowered it to verify it touched down. If not you could leave a second rope on the ground, rap off on a not-doubled-over single line, tie on the second rope for the person at the top to pull up and set up a double rappel without having to climb with a second rope. Jun 8, 2017
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
Can this be rap'd off with a single 60m? Or is it mandatory 2 ropes? Jun 8, 2017