Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T.A. Horton and Hobart Parks
Page Views: 3,118 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin in a corner formed by a thin chimney. Utilize chimney technique or jam your way up the dihedral past a polished slab to more comfortable jams and stemming stances as you move up.

Location

Corner between New Yosemite
and Junk Yard Dog.

Protection

Cams to #3. Hexes and large nuts are very useful as well. Bolted anchor.

Photos

gio92
Bend, OR
 
gio92   Bend, OR
 
Stayed surprisingly dry after a rain the previous night and day. Short but fun. Oct 14, 2014
Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
Chimney climbing is new to me but it felt very solid. The crux is exiting the chimney on the polished face but you can protect it very well. Safe climb since you follow the crack all the way to the top. You can place as much gear as you want. Not sure why people are saying Pg-13 or R when a placement is always available. The anchor is very accessible from the top and only a couple minute hike from the base of the route. If you're unsure just tr it first. Oct 3, 2016