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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T.A. Horton and Hobart Parks
Page Views: 2,891 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Begin in a corner formed by a thin chimney. Utilize chimney technique or jam your way up the dihedral past a polished slab to more comfortable jams and stemming stances as you move up.

Location [Suggest Change]

Corner between New Yosemite
and Junk Yard Dog.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams to #3. Hexes and large nuts are very useful as well. Bolted anchor.

Photos

gio92
Bend, OR
 
gio92   Bend, OR
 
Stayed surprisingly dry after a rain the previous night and day. Short but fun. Oct 14, 2014
Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
Chimney climbing is new to me but it felt very solid. The crux is exiting the chimney on the polished face but you can protect it very well. Safe climb since you follow the crack all the way to the top. You can place as much gear as you want. Not sure why people are saying Pg-13 or R when a placement is always available. The anchor is very accessible from the top and only a couple minute hike from the base of the route. If you're unsure just tr it first. Oct 3, 2016

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