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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford
Page Views: 873 total · 7/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 17, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This beautiful arch is located behind The Dead Horse Spire. (Which is on the high plateau behind the hospital in Chinle, Ariz.) Don't be fooled by the 5.7 rating;...this climb is serious, very soft, very loose, very dicey, potentially dangerous, and has a may-pop anchor to boot! We loved it! I got a few token pieces of protection in on the way up the side of the arch;...none probably would have held a fall; my partner surfed a big slab of rock right off the arch following the pitch. And when we rapped off the anchor (about 5-7 pitons), all of them moved and shifted with our body weight. We had fun. My partner (Cyndie Bransford) almost got bit by a rattlesnake on the hike over too. Just a normal day out craggin' on the Res. Alot of bang for the buck on this wild adventure. (Got your curiousity up?) This climb is in no guidebook, and has probably never had a 2nd ascent. I'm sure after reading this description, climbers will be tripping all over each other to get to this climb.......

Location

Behind Dead Horse Spire, Chinle, Ariz.

Protection

A rack of cams (Good luck) Maybe a bolt kit for an anchor?

Photos

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