PRINT: Rock Climb St. Alfonso's, Red River Gorge

St. Alfonso's

5.7, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 76 votes
FA: Eric Bostrum, Carol Beechy, Linda Beal (July 1976)
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Phantasia

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

A fun route worth climbing. Chimney up to gain crack and generous edges. Proceed by using jams and fading edges through flaring slot to the top. Rap from trees-slings/ring.

Location

Found at the extreme left end of Phantasia Wall, left of Overlord, left side of amphitheater.

Protection

Med-large cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt not thinking of pancakes on St. Alfonso's. 08 May 2004

St. Alphonzo (5.7), Phantasia Wall, Red River Gorge, KY.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pat Langendorfer
Muncie, IN

Having several C4 #3's and #4's would be a big plus here. Jul 22, 2013

Kathryn Ann Marsh
Cleveland, OH

As of June 1, 2014, the existing nylon slings w/ rap rings at the top are badly sun damaged and worn. Jun 15, 2014

Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD

5.7

In 2016, all old tat was cut off and replaced with one 8mm cord and biner. As of now more new slings and a rap ring have been added. Jun 5, 2017

Santiago Santacruz
Cali, CO

On Oct 06 2017 I used the tree anchor for rappeling. For a top-rope anchor bring ~20ft of rope or webbing to extend the anchor beyond the lip and reduce rope damage. Tree anchor was top notch inclduing a rap ring. Oct 8, 2017

Nick Tripp
Urbana, IL

This route is long, and fun! Sustained jams all the way to the bulgy boulder finish; definitely worth 3/4 stars. Jul 16, 2018

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

5.8

Great climb. Not sure I placed anything smaller than a 2? 3-4 pieces of webbing or cord ran through a ring on the tree, was fine to bring up follower and rappel as of 5/2019. May 1, 2019

Evan Schiewe

Such a fun climb, and it just keeps going!

Those with smaller hands might have to search a little harder for good jams. If you look closely, you might find a few #1 placements that work with long arms and nimble fingers. Otherwise this thing just eats 2s and 3s. Jul 4, 2019

Tyler Phillips
Louisville, KY

Webbing solid as of 9/21/19. multiples of 2's and 3's makes it much easier. Sep 21, 2019

Josh Maher
the road!

As of July 2020, webbing is solid around a large healthy tree. There is an aluminum rap ring and a small coldshut to keep the tat together. Makes it easy to set up a TR. Jul 19, 2020

William m

Underappreciated climb. I thought the varied movement was equal value to Autumn, but the crack is dirty and doesn't seem to get much traffic. Felt stiff for 5.7, especially through the middle/top, but no more than 5.8-8+ range. I was glad I brought two each of BD #3 & #4 Mar 15, 2021

Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY

5.8

This thing was mega dirty. Still probably worth it though. I used triples 2-4, and a single tricam in the side crack. I would recommend doing the same. If you only have doubles, run out the bottom half, as it is much easier than the upper half.

As of this comment, there are two new looking blue nylon slings around the thick tree about ten feet back from the top of the route. Sep 17, 2023