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Routes in Moonstone, Leg Lock Rock, Bolt Rock Area

Blood Moon V9-10 7C+
Bolt, The V0+ 4+
Charles in Charge V5 6C
Eclipse V8 7B
Fastball AKA The Baseball Throw V2 5+
Fierce Invalids T V4+ 6B+
Fish Tale V4 6B
Flying Fish V0+ 4+
Flying Fish Left Arete V4 6B
Full Moon V8 7B
Gun Shy V5 6C
Lob Job V6 7A
Moonlighting V8 7B
Moonstone V6 7A
New Moon V10 7C+
Steppin' Out V3 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Charlie Henrikson
Page Views: 2,062 total · 16/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on May 16, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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A great problem with distinctive moves. Start with undercling and a toe-cam (if tall enough) and make the long reach to unlikely slopers. Keep your feet on and toss for the jug.

Please clean your tick marks or do not use them at all!


Clean fall. Downclimb the pine tree, but be gentle!


Colin Cox  
I can't reach the crimp from the heel toe...so I've only done this problem once. Much harder I believe. Looks like a path with the heel/toe. Jun 28, 2014
Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
Love this problem! Definitely a project for me, but so cool! Oct 30, 2012
What a trip seeing all this Groom beta. Takes me back. Who did the FA of this rad problem anyway? May 1, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
This was absolutely one of my favorites during my Prescott years. Probably have done it hundreds of times. I always matched on the slopey crimp dish, followed by a pseudo dyno! Classic body locking. Nov 5, 2010
I may be biased, but i think Charles in Charge is deserving of more stars...Combined with Gun Shy and the Moonstone this little zone rules! Mar 13, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
The Sucker problem is its own unique weirdness. I'm pretty sure most people send Charles before the Sucker, but I think the moves on Charles are ultimately more challenging. The Sucker is a right of passage. Mar 12, 2008
Cool problem, and unique! The lunge to the slopers is maybe a bit easier if you're above 6'1" or so. Certainly feels easier than the sucker problem, that I still can't figure out.. ? Nov 16, 2007

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