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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Brian Povolny, Todd Gordon, Carl Granstaf, Steve Prakken, Diane Stang, David Ek, Tom Michael
Page Views: 1,056 total · 8/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 16, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Closed. Details
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions In Place and Closures Scheduled for May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

This is a crag with various routes 5.7 to 5.10c. They have names like West Face (5.10b), Diamond Route (5.9), South Edge (5.9+), North Ridge (5.7), Larry the Liar Gets a Friend (5.9+), East Face Right (5.10c)....there may be more....but I doubt it. They are loosely described in Eric's Desert Rock. We climbed here because the climbs were short, the climbs were fun (for us......but they aint' all that......)...we climbed here after work, got together with friends, challenged ourselves, got some exercise, got cuts on our hands/legs/arms,...shreaded our novice climber friends, and all in a very quiet, secluded , beautiful place with NO approach. I'm telling ya;... the climbing aint' too good, but the fun is good. Steve Prakken made it up a few of these climbs;...he's a doctor, a non-climber, and a good sport who was game for anything;....He got top-roped up 5.9 and 5.10 desert cracks;...he got real bloody, and had a bloody good time as well. We "discovered" this climbing area while scouting out rock formations from an airplane! There are dirt roads all over the place, some cool Anasazi cave ruins, arches, and windows, a few spires, ...all sorts of cool stuff to explore. This area is hidden from the main road by a big dirt mesa;....but it's fairly easy to get to, once you figure it out. Worth a visit;....if even just to satisfy a curiousity and check out a cool area.

Location [Edit]

North of the main road between Many Farms and Chinle, Ariz.

Protection [Edit]

Cams/slings... Free climbing stuff. All climbs you need to rap off, I believe. There are other climbs to do here....we just did a few and then moved on....


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
We were the only climbers to ever climb here...or so we believed. Once these climbs got in Desert Rock, I guess a few others were curious, and visited this out of the way area. There was one spire which we were saving to do;...we even named it "The Rocket Ship" was really cool and looked like a rocketship. We never did it when we lived on the Res, but on a visiting trip back, we went back to take a look again at this formation;...someone had climbed the damn thing!....we snooze;..we loose......Oh well;...another missed opportunity;...I would like to have info on this, if anyone has wasn't El Cap, but it looked like fun, and it was an unclimbed spire. May 16, 2007

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