The Free Route

The original Free Route to the summit offers thrilling climbing and generally good protection on solid stone.

P1, 80 feet, 5.12b. Swing across to the hanging belay. the route goes left from the belay and then up. The first clip or two will likely be climbing on wet rock. Follow the bolts to the ledge, placing gear in the .75 crack just before the ledge.

P2, 130 feet, 5.12b. Ascend the stellar arete to the summit ledge passing numerous fixed-hanger bolts and a few TCU placements.

"DESCENT": Rig a tyrolean back to the mainland with the rope you trailed up. Due to the corkscrew nature of this tower you'll want to plan your hauling method in advance. One technique is to have the leader haul a thin tag line that can be used to haul the fixed tyrolean rope after each pitch. This is cetainly adviseable on P2. Once on the summit ledge, traverse around the summit block to "un-wind" the fixed rope from the tower.

You'll get wet and it's almost always in the shade. Bring something to keep at least the belayer on p1 warm and dry.

At the end of Cape Hauy. The route climbs every face and arete of the Tote at one time or another.

Many carrot hangers. Take draws and a single rack up to number 2 for some mandatory trad placements. Nuts, TCU's up to big finger-size, and an optional #2 camalot for the belay ledge atop P1. Ascenders to bail or for the tyrolean.