All Locations > International > Australia > Tasmania > Tasman Peninsula > Fortescue Bay > Cape Hauy > The Totem Pole
The Free Route
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in The Totem Pole
|Free Route, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Steve Monks, Simon Mentz|
|Page Views:||6,002 total, 47/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on May 16, 2007|
DescriptionThe original Free Route to the summit offers thrilling climbing and generally good protection on solid stone.
P1, 80 feet, 5.12b. Begin on the belay rock, and ascend the left arete for several feet past two carrot bolts. The crux follows with a difficult, crimpy traverse to the right arete, passing two more carrots and an old aid bolt. Once on the right arete, things ease a bit. Continue the right-ward traverse past another carrot, then head up to a shallow finger crack which propigates from the belay ledge. Clip a couple of fixed pins in this crack, and perhaps place a TCU. Easier moves gain the belay ledge.
P2, 130 feet, 5.12b. Ascend the stellar arete to the summit ledge passing numerous fixed-hanger bolts and a few TCU placements.
"DESCENT": Rig a tyrolean back to the mainland with the rope you trailed up. Due to the corkscrew nature of this tower you will want to plan your hauling method in advance. One technique is to have the leader haul a thin tag line that can be used to haul the fixed tyrolean rope after each pitch. This is cetainly adviseable on P2. Once on the summit ledge, traverse around the summit block to "un-wind" the fixed rope from the tower.