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Routes in No Money Down (Left)

Coveted, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dung Beetle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Terms S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Modesty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Popular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Money Down S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Payment Plan, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Repossession S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rose Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Student Loan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thou Shalt Not Covet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truth in Advertising S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Anony Mouse
Page Views: 2,304 total, 18/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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102 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb what was the start of The Coveted (5.11b), up an easy slab to a few undercling moves (that can seem tough till you get it right), out to the right and up a short, shallow corner.... Clip the chains, but remember to do another move or two to the top of the cliff (they are the best moves on the route, I think)....
The anchors were left low, so the ropes run smoothly....

Not in the guidebook....

Location

Just right of Student Loan (5.11b) and left of Mr. Popular....

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips....
Awesome climb! Cool start, and fun roof movement. Gets pumpy at the anchors. Stay solid! Clipping the final bolt is tricky, and very taxing of energy. The protection it provides is very important, though, regarding a fall from the anchor area. Some may choose to skip this final bolt, though, because getting to the anchor is easier without worrying about this bolt. In other words, it's placed in a weird spot that takes you off the easiest line to the anchor. You almost have to go up, struggle to clip into it, then come back down to where you were. Then you move toward the right side of the roof/corner where the anchor is accessed (not up and over the bolt you just clipped). Hope that makes sense. Certainly all of the above can be done in one smooth sequence, but it's awkward. Jul 6, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I climbed this roof problem having no idea what route I was on (the 2009 guidebook descriptions in this area are wicked confusing). Thanks to the boys on guard at MP for clearing up the confusion! Jul 13, 2015
Now 5 bolts. Due to people breaking their ankles falling onto the slab below, a bolt has been added at the top (stainless fixe glue-in) , so there is now no excuse not to get on it. Apr 27, 2014
S. Neoh  
I agree with Mark's comment under Student Loan - The Coveted should be listed as a 'legit' route, with this one as a variation of the original. May 22, 2010