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Routes in No Money Down (Left)

Coveted, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dung Beetle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Terms S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Modesty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Popular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Money Down S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Payment Plan, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Repossession S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rose Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Student Loan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thou Shalt Not Covet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truth in Advertising S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport
FA: Kasia Weglarz
Page Views: 2,500 total · 18/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb the arete right of No Money Down (5.10c), then up the slab to the roof.... Undercling and crimp your way to a big move to a good hold and to the shared anchors of The Coveted, 5.11b.

I've heard this route called 5.11a, but I think its crux is harder, so I called it 5.11b....

Location

Just right of No Money Down (5.10c).... Climb the arete to the slab and roof to old anchors of The Coveted (5.11b).

Protection

6 bolts to chains....

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
The Coveted has been deleted per the request of the submitter. What is the history of Student Loan, in regard to The Coveted? Does anyone know who did what first and why The Coveted was erased by Student Loan? May 16, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
I am under the impression that the original line (The Coveted 5.11b) went up what is now Thou Shalt Not Covet (5.9) and broke left and finished up what is now Student Loan (5.11a).... I did the link up, and it didn't flow too well (I used a piece of gear and a few long runners....

I did get my info from a website, so it could be incorrect. So please correct me if I'm wrong.... May 17, 2007
M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
You are correct Lee. When the route was cleaned, the Coveted was found to be pretty contrived feeling, therefore anchors were placed more to the right, resulting in Though Shalt Not Covet. An easier (for most) way to the old anchors was found coming in from the left, which I bolted for Kasia Weglarz to do, hence "Student Loan". The Coveted (originally done by Ed Suel (sp?) I believe, or another fellow Rhodie Loady) can still be done of course, but it is not too highly recommended. Aug 15, 2007
M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
The bomb,Jay? lol. It's not that bad! May 12, 2010
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
The Coveted FA was M. Johnson, T. Armstrong, and J. Shimberg August 1988 May 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
..Mac Johnson of Mac's Traverse, Lincoln Woods fame. Thanks, Glenn. May 14, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Yeah, maybe I'm being a bit harsh. It was wet when I climbed it, so maybe that influenced my experience. I'll change it to one star. May 15, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I was amazed, after doing Bolt Line and Cold Turkey, how many bolts there were on the slab section of this climb. Apr 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
Bolt Line and Cold Turkey are taller, with longer slab sections, hence the bolts could be more spaced out. Student Loan's slab portion is shorter and closer to the ground. Probably when I bolted it, I was balancing ground fall potential vs. having one more bolt and having them kind of close together. We frown on bolting with ground fall potential at Rumney. Apr 15, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Oh, I'm not complaining. I was just surprised by the contrast :p Apr 16, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
A few weeks ago I had taken the fall after the last clip, figured it out, said "damn, oh well, next time for sure", and effortlessly made the final movies to the crag top.

Well, next time came around and I floundered! To the point where I couldn't even figure out how to make it to the anchors. I usually see my blunder after sitting for a second but this one made me tuck my tail. Even after aiding to the anchor, I couldn't see the move this time. Just smear above the roof as you bust straight up from the deep horizontals above? or is there a trick to make it feel the grade? Jun 3, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
WARNING, Onsight Spoiler -


I am quite short so my way may not work for everyone. There is a key left hand hold about straight up from the last bolt if I remember correctly. The last time I was on the route, a kind soul had ticked it so it was easy to spot. There is of course the big high foothold over the roof off to the right. What I do is use the ticked left hand hold, high right foot, smear left foot on almost nothing, right hand up to a small but good crimp below the top and then pop the left hand (or right, I do not recall exactly) to a shallowly dished hold over the top, above the anchors. Be careful, the hold over the top remains wet for a day or two after rain. On redpoint attempt, I was very surprised when my hand came flying off after I thought I had the "clipping jug". A nice fall but safe but only if your belayer does not suck in all the slack and slam your knee caps into the roof :) I was lucky to have a skilled and alert belayer to catch my surprise fall.
Yeah, I would not argue with a grade of .11b for this climb. Mark is keeping us honest and our inflated egos in check. Jun 3, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Thanks! That sounds about what I imagined it should be but couldn't quite seem to make it work. I tossed a few desperate hucks to the lip only to peel off from the dampness. I told myself I was better than throwing for it but couldn't put it together, hah! I'm stubborn and will be back soon. :) Jun 4, 2013
superkick
Houston, TX
  5.11a/b
superkick   Houston, TX
  5.11a/b
Why such low stars? I thought pullign through the roof and the final moves before the anchors were fantastically fun. Jul 15, 2013
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves. Aug 22, 2013
losbill  
Have a good belayer. Jul 13, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11c
The last move (crux) is . . . exciting. Had to throw for it. However, clipping that bolt over the roof was the real crux for me. Couldn't do it until Ian put an extra long runner on it. Would've gone a l-o-n-g way if I'd missed the throw at the top. Jun 10, 2018

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