The Iron Chef
5.7 A3+,
Trad, Aid, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
FA: Chip Wilson, Steve Crusher Bartlett, May 13, 2007
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Fisher Towers
> Echo Tower
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Three sustained pitches. Pitches 1 and 3 are open faces with thin seams. Pitch 2 is a meat-and-potato pitch: long, muddy and strenuous.
1. Climb easy slabs for fifty feet to a steep wall. Follow a seam (A3) to a three-bolt belay (130', A3).
2. Move left into a slot angling up and right. Up this and the long continuation crack in the obvious muddy left-facing dihedral to a tiny perch and three-bolt belay (170', A3).
3. Gain a poor seam ten feet right of the belay and follow this for thirty feet to a bolt (invisible from below) and jog right into a better crack leading to a zone of broken and dirty ledges. Finagle your way through this zone to a crack in a flare. When this ends, tension left into an crack in an obvious deep slot; up this to the big ledge and a three-bolt belay (130', A3+).
4. Move right to join the North Chimney route. Grunt over a bulge, pass a few bolts, then climb mostly free up the chimney to the large ledge under the final bolt ladder (A1, 5.7R, 90').
5. Up the North Chimney/Phantom Sprint bolt ladder past about ten bolts (A0, 30')
Location
The Iron Chef starts about forty feet right of Phantom Sprint.
Descent: Rappel the route (or rap Phantom Sprint)
Protection
1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres, 2 Knifeblades, 4 Leepers, 6 Lost Arrows, 4 Standard Angles, 2 each larger angles to 2". Selection of nuts. Cams: 2- to 3 each from 0.5" to #5 Camalot.
Boulder, CO
Estes Park
Well there's a gear list you don't see every day!
Nice work Crusher and Chip! May 17, 2007
Winona
Yeah, the rap line is pretty direct, might be quite convenient for rapping Phantom Sprint. Apr 17, 2013