Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bloody Fingers Corridor

Breezeway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Featured Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hough's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intruding Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 640 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 16, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A good route with good holds and mostly secure climbing, but little for protection. As such, this makes just as good of a solo as a lead. The holds are good and the rock is solid. This would also be an good beginner TR since the moves are fairly intuitive and no special jamming skills or crimping/smearing/stemming is required- it climbs more like a ladder.

Location

This well-featured face lies about midway between the routes "Hough's Crack" and "Breezeway." Climb your way up through the big holds to a crux up high where you will wander slightly to keep the line of lowest resistance.

Protection

A good solo or TR. Others say you can get good pro in (see comments below).

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Pro used:
#4 in a big pocket (maybe 20 feet up)
Slung slot (you have to hunt for it)
#0.3 after the giant last patina dinner plate

2 #2s and 1 #3 for the anchor way up and back. Sep 3, 2015
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7 PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7 PG13
I used a sling to back up (and tie down) my cam for the belay on the ramp, but, didn't really notice any on the route.

After the initial moves, I tried to trend a bit left to extend the route up as high as possible (fun, big holds!). I really thought after the bouldery start, the route was around 5.3 in difficulty (give or take). Only thing I'd caution is that although the rock felt really solid, I'm sure you could find a friable jug to pop off if you yarded hard enough on the thin ones. Near the top, the gear sorta runs out onto the lower angle slab, but, you're really on your feet at that point. Oct 4, 2009
zoso  
Good to know. Now maybe I'll give it a go. Any slinging of horns, etc? Oct 4, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7 PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7 PG13
With the exception of the bouldery start, reasonable protection can be had with small cams (00 TCU to 3 TCU or equivalent) in fairly deep and secure horizontal cracks spaced at nice locations up the route. Save a #3 camalot (ect) for the belay on the bench leading to the groove/chimney down climb to the West. If this route went for 200 feet it'd be all world! Oct 4, 2009