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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Todd Gordon, Lorie Graf
Page Views: 543 total, 4/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed. Details

Description

This Pinnacle is easily viewed from the paved road ; It is a cool looking little spire. The rock is soft. Pitch one; Pin placement down low on climb. leads to 2-3 " crack to a ledge. Pitch 2; climb up past a bird's nest to a 2-3" crack ....Loose rock, and climb up a loose pillar at the end.

Location

Located on the west side of the road, 3 miles north of Many Farms.

Protection

cams, 2 pins (standard angle, one L A long thick), few nuts. Rap from fixed pins at top...one double rope rap.

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This was the first climb I ever did with Lorie Graf;...after this I went on to do many climbs with Lorie;...she was a good climbing partner, and very tough girl....before this, she had climbed a few times with a college climbing class.; that's it! I didn't know Lorie at all, and doing this climb with her was a wake-up call for her, and a "get aquainted" day for us ;..the route was challenging , loose, sort of dicey, but short.....a good "practice" climb for the soft stuff out on the Res. Our 2nd climb together was Castleton; she did just fine. This pinnacle is very close to the road, and it really cool looking. The climbing though, sort of sucks. The adventure of the whole experience does NOT suck;.....it's big fun for such a little spire. I bet someone else has climbed this spire since it's first ascent;..it's just too cute and tempting;..just sitting there by the road;...calling out your name. May 16, 2007