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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian Povolny, Todd Gordon, Oct. 1982
Page Views: 546 total, 4/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Tsaile Peak is the large Volcanic Peak seen to the east of the settlement of Tsaile. Arizona. Pitch one; 5.8 shelves to hand crack to belay ledge. Pitch two; traverse Right to chimney/chute (5.9) to hanging belay. Chimney is hard to protect. Pitch three; Climb straight up steep rock (5.10) through some bushes to a belay ledge. Pitch 4; climb a flake on the left...tunnel through. Pitch 5; climb to top from left side of terrace, via a 5.7 chimney The rock on this climb is loose.

Location

The large volcanic peak as seen from the settlement of Tsaile Tsaile is where the big Navajo Community college is. The Formation is off to the east of Tsaile. Follow dirt roads to the peak, from Tsaile. Follow your nose.

Protection

Double or triple rack of cams, stoppers, slings;...no pins needed. Down climb East face (included is one rap)

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Volcanic rock;.....Shiprock, Agathlan, Tsaile Peak;....a break from red sandstone. I did the F. A. of this peak with Brian Povolny in Oct. of 1982. The ascent was Brian's idea. I don't remember much about this climb; I was gripped the whole way, because I forgot my helmet, and whenever Brian was leading , I had to belay with one hand on the rope, and another hand covering (inadequately, too...) my head from rocks which were coming down. The climbing was sort of grippy anyways;....the no helmet bit made the whole experience sort of irritating for me. This area is in a pine forrest, and I believe people sometimes go hiking around this area, but not very often. Even though it is close to Tsaile College (It's the one with the cool multi-story glass library building shaped like a hogan!)...I don't think this area gets visited too often. It's cold and snowy here during the winter months. I would imagine that this route has NOT had a 2nd ascent. May 16, 2007