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Lost Pioneers

5.10a PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 128 votes
FA: J. Goodwin, 1980
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Upper Breadloaves - East
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.

Location

This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair. There are two sets of anchors found up top, one set directly on the route right below the big OW/finger crack, and another set to rap from (with a 70, don't know if a 60 would reach) from the top and to the left (easy to get to) of the OW.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Maura Hahnenberger on Lost Pioneers
[Hide Photo] Maura Hahnenberger on Lost Pioneers
Lost Pioneers to Green Crack makes an excellent linkup (done as 1 pitch).
[Hide Photo] Lost Pioneers to Green Crack makes an excellent linkup (done as 1 pitch).
Looking up Lost Pioneers.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Lost Pioneers.
View of the climb from the base - harder than it looks!
[Hide Photo] View of the climb from the base - harder than it looks!
The rappel anchor
[Hide Photo] The rappel anchor
Looking down on the fun offwidth with perfect finger crack topout section.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the fun offwidth with perfect finger crack topout section.
The route from the base.
[Hide Photo] The route from the base.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Like Tony said, the route looks low angle from the ground...and it is but it's somewhat awkward. Good holds, takes gear (better than the PG13 rating) and is fun. Just before reaching the summit you have to climb using a somewhat offwidth crack on the right until you can gain some good finger locks for your left hand. Anchor as of 8/10/07 included the slung block with a slotted nut for a back up. Not sure if it's bomber, but I rapped on it!

~Susan Aug 15, 2007
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
 
[Hide Comment] Varied, fun, and interesting route. More challenging than it looks from the ground, for sure. We walked off the west side which proved to be almost as spicy as the climb up. Jul 10, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! The climb's personality seemed to be plug some good gear, then run it as you mantle or reach through a thin section to a bomber rest. I felt the top offwidth was the crux as you have to lieback the finger crack while your feet smear on the arete till you can get inside the offwidth. Decking onto the ledge below seemed likely due to rope stretch. Exhilarating! Anchor is now two fixed nuts equalized. Jul 13, 2010
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
[Hide Comment] Great Route. We hiked to the No Cash Refunds Anchor and rapped from there.. Jun 23, 2011
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was the only one I on-sighted. Give it a go! Aug 5, 2013
DRyan Ryan
Bellingham, WA
 
[Hide Comment] As of 9/14 there is no longer any slung block above the offwidth section that I could find. There is a slung boulder at the base of the offwidth, but then you'd be cheating yourself out of the best part of the climb! Instead, move to the far left of the ledge at the top of the finger cracks to find chains directly above where the route started. A 70 m got me down. A 60 m will likely work, but it'll be close. Sep 2, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it. Jun 13, 2015
Jordan Gilbert
Logan, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This seemingly overlooked route is one of my favorite COR moderates. Such fun movement throughout, would get 4 stars if it was a bit more continuous. Oct 23, 2016
Jesse Wees
Boise
[Hide Comment] This route is not PG13 with modern protection. Excellent and often overlooked. May 4, 2020
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
 
[Hide Comment] Classic granite style climbing! Way better than you'd think! Definitely link into Green Crack, it's so dope together. Jul 6, 2022
Kyle Goupil
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] As others have noted, this route is not PG13, and linking it with Green Crack makes for one really awesome route! Linked together I would give it 3/4 stars, really awesome! Jun 18, 2023
Katie Hughes
Ridgway, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Nothing about this route is pg13 - the pro is excellent. Bring a LOT of med - large nuts! I only used 3 cams.. #2, .75 and .3 Aug 28, 2024