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Routes in 3 Maranatha Area
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Agent Orange T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Beginners Only T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Force, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maranatha T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talking with Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Two-Edged Sword T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where Real Men Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Your Mother... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon, Kris Kline, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 6,062 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.
Location
From the Tree Route follow the trail towards the South Bridge Wall. The trail initially goes down but soon starts up and arrives at the cliff near a distinct corner with Your Mother. Just around this corner is an alcove/pit with an overhanging orange face to the right. That's the climb.
Protection
Mid to small cams, TCU's. The crux can be protected with a bomber nut placement at the small overhang to the right (#9, #10 Metolius and similar). The crack next to the pillar is very slick so zip it up. I once fell before placing the bomber nut, pulled the TCU, and ended up close to a ground fall. Bolted anchor.
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