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Routes in Maranatha Area

Agent Orange T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beginners Only T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Force, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maranatha T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking with Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Two Edged Sword T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where Real Men Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Your Mother... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon, Kris Kline, 1983
Page Views: 4,100 total, 32/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.

Location

From the Tree Route follow the trail towards the South Bridge Wall. The trail initially goes down but soon starts up and arrives at the cliff near a distinct corner with Your Mother. Just around this corner is an alcove/pit with an overhanging orange face to the right. That's the climb.

Protection

Mid to small cams, TCU's. The crux can be protected with a bomber nut placement at the small overhang to the right (#9, #10 Metolius and similar). The crack next to the pillar is very slick so zip it up. I once fell before placing the bomber nut, pulled the TCU, and ended up close to a ground fall. Bolted anchor.

Photos

David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11d
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11d
Stellar route with a great variety of movement. Definitely bring nuts; I didn't and regretted it, as there are a couple of key placements. There are a couple of good handjam rests to place from, so you'll be able to find something with a single rack of cams from tips to #3 camalot. May 27, 2015