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Routes in The Fin

Exhibition Wall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 105 ft
FA: Nelson Gillis, Larry Kline 69, FFA: Mike Roybal, Peter Prandoni, 76
Page Views: 478 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is a challenging way to finish off a day of cragging. The route offers varied climbing on slightly less than ideal stone in a beautiful setting. Make sure you're solid at the grade before attempting--you don't want to epic in front of the tourists! This route would be very easy to TR, but use care reaching the anchor as it is extremely exposed.

Begin at the far north end of the E face, about 10 feet from the north buttress. Climb up and slightly left along a rounded fin. After clipping a fixed pin, the crack disappears and a few steep, crux face moves gain another good crack (a bit runout here, but a marginal RP is possible). Follow this straight up to a detached flake. Traverse left along the base of the flake (don't pull too hard!), then head up on good face holds left of the flake to a splitter finger crack with hand-sized pods. Check out the two ancient ring-angles in the crack (may want to back-up these relics), then fire straight up to the blocky roofs. Traverse up and right under the roofs to the belay tree.

Location

On the East Face of the Fin. There are two ways to approach from the La Luz trail. The most obvious is to descend the talus from the La Luz trail when the route first comes into view. Another option is to stay on the La Luz until the trail passes below the bottom of the formation.

Protection

Gear to 3". Bring at least 3 QDs for fixed pins. Its possible to rap/lower off with one 60m rope from a sling anchor with a steel ring.

Photos

John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b
The rock is quite good on this route. It has cleaned up well over the last 10 years or so. The pro is good and the climbing is steep. It is one of the best single pitch 5.10s in the Sandias. There are a couple of old pins on the route that are... well, not so good. Back them up, there are good gear placements available. Apr 22, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
This climb is one of the few short ones off the La Luz that's shaded in the afternoon, along with the longer Thumb routes on the face above the trail, if you're looking for one more pitch on a hot day.

One of the ring pins was loose when I climbed this last year, but they are close together and other gear is available. Sep 28, 2010

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