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For me, this climb was one I did once and tried to forget. The climb is awkward in the way it climbs up the sequence of ledges and you are always clipping a bolt strangely.
Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.
(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)
By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a bit of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold on the climb. It is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)
Starts on big tree route just left of big boulder where the trail comes up from Flesh for Lulu. You can scurry up that boulder fairly easily and belay / start comfortably from there to avoid folks below Misdemeanor.
8 bolts to anchor.
Don't botch a clip on this climb or you'll be on your way down to one of those ledges you mantled so awkwardly earlier.
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Dixfield, ME
Also, at about mid-height on the route, there is a hold--a big, juggy, hold--that, if looked at the right way, resembles a rhino's horn.
Absolutely recommended! May 15, 2007
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
The start can be a bit wet.... May 16, 2007
Plymouth, NH
I remember feeling like this climb wasn't fun. To add to my dislike for the climb, my climbing partner has told me it was 5.8, and I was using it to burn out for the day. Only after climbing it did I look at the guidebook. Consequently, I've always had a sour taste in my mouth about this one.
Also, I don't climb with that climbing partner anymore. May 17, 2007
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Are you suggesting that the new leader jump from the anchors without clipping them? I know this is common practice on climbs such as Whip Tide and Predator, but I wonder if this "technique" has made it's way to the Meadows. May 17, 2007
Plymouth, NH
The victory whip from this climb would be bloody, I was just suggesting a leader try the climb first on TR to find the anchor clipping hold so that an unintentional victory-whip doesn't happen. May 22, 2007
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Plymouth, NH
Of course, you could downrate the climb to 5.8+ C1 and grab the chains.... May 22, 2007
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Plymouth, NH
Pretty funny Jay, I know absolutely nothing about rating aid climbing, I almost put down C0 but I didn't know if the rating existed...so I chose C1, I remember seeing that rating somewhere.
Now, of course too late, I've actually educated myself a bit and understand the difference. May 22, 2007
Concord, NH
Manchester NH
Center Harbor, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Bad bolt/sleeve or spinning hanger?
I remember several spinners on this route when I last climbed it (in 2009).
Speaking of spinner, is the 7th or 8th hanger on Flesh still
on the bolt? I remembered someone replacing it last year because it had fallen off!
Thanks,
-SNeoh Jul 6, 2010
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Laconia, NH
Boulder, CO
As for clipping the anchors, I have never said the words "clipping, take, and ready to lower" in such quick succession. It went something like "CLIPPI-TA-READY TO LOWER!" Apr 7, 2012
Laconia, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
San Francisco, CA
Cambridge, MA