It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.
This is a very beautiful spire in a very isolated quiet spot. The route climbs the SW part of the spire. Pitch 1; start out with a A1 crack to mixed free/aid, to a 5.10- slot;...traverse left and belay. Pitch 2; A3+, then an A2 crack to a roof (A2), then up a clean A1 crack just right of the arete. Pitch 3 climbs an A2 corner ( on the left) to a cave . Pitch 4; This is the double overhang pitch; Climb an A2 crack to an overhang that ascends over 2 roofs....after that , it slabs out a bit, to some A3+ placements; step right and climb up the slot to a belay on the left. Pitch 5; scramble (4th class) to the summit.
This huge formation is striking from the road, and is best seen as you travel from Round Rock to Many Farms and Chinle. Drive right up to it, driving on dirt roads that are north of all the rock formations. This is just past Chinle Spire and Round Rock;...all in the same area.
Double or triple set of cams, large cams, about 15 pins. Slings/biners.