Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad
Page Views: 2,040 total · 14/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 14, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed. Details


This is a very cool and skinny spire in a very wonderful place. The climbing is a bit dicey. Pitch one;....climb up a slanting ramp with a crack . (5.9) Pitch 2; Climb 5.6 face and hop on a bolt ladder of various "things" bounded into drilled holes;...in the holes are bolts, pitons, and various hardware devices;....a hodgepodge of metal.There is a short crack section in this pitch;...then back to the bolts. Pitch 3; a whole pitch of (You guessed it...) more bolts. Pitch 4 starts with a 5.8 crack, which soon is A1, then a couple of bolts, then a section of really dicey soft/rotten rock ; this be the A4 section, I believe. The rappell from the summit was from a 6 mm cord rapped around the summit, backed up by a piton hammered into a hole......(Best bring some extra rope or a really really long sling to back this up. Rap from top to 3....three to 1, and one to ground.


This is on the N. end of a formation W. of Round Rock...you can't miss it......you can see it for miles. At one point, it's skinnier in it's middle, than at the summit.....it's a trip.


Some cams, a few pins, and a ton of quick draws, tie offs, slings.


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.9 A4
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.9 A4
I climbed this spire with Brian Povolny in Oct. 1982. We had both just moved to work and live on the Res;...I was itching to climb, and Brian had resolved himself that the climbing in the S W was crap, and he would just wait until he got back to the Pacific Northwest. Someone had told me of a climber who lived in Chinle, and I talked to Brian on the phone once. We agreed to climb together;..I picked this one for our first climb. I drove over to the base of the climb and waited for Brian to arrive and met him in person. I had only climbed one pitch on sandstone before, and Brian had not yet climbed on sandstone. Brian led pitch one, and placed a pin, which he tugged on and it pulled out; we were scared from the get-go. I led pitch 2 and a cold wind started to whip up. Brian led three and I got scared on some really bad rock on pitch 4. The anchor got us scared too. Being on this airy summit was fantastic;..it's got to be one of the finest summit anywhere;....very small, on top of , seemingly, the head of a pin......Brian didn't have as much warm clothes as me, and he was freezing; we were both wind-blown, and mentally cooked from this experience. We had fun, and did hundreds of climbs together over the years after this first one. The climb took us most of the day. This was a good one to start out with, for most others after that weren't so airy and scary in comparison. May 14, 2007
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
That was a nice story, Todd Oct 28, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Great tale Todd. Sep 25, 2016
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.9 C2
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.9 C2
For maximum adventure, ignore the following description. This was from an ascent in 2011, things may have changed since then (like the condition of the rivet ladder for instance)
Desert Rock calls this route the North Face, but it actually starts on the East Face and then follows a bolt ladder up the South Face. It’s a good idea to bring a bolt kit in case more of the rivets are missing.
P1: 5.9 Hoist yourself onto an easy ramp on the east face (facing Little Round Rock and the road you drove in on, not facing The Pope) and romp up low-angled terrain to a short, vertical offwidth crux just below the bolted anchor. 1 bolt, Rack .75-#6 Camalot (90’)
P2: C1/C2 Follow a rivet ladder straight off the belay (first one missing as of 04/11) with three sections of mandatory free climbing (5.6, 5.8, 5.8). The crux is stepping off the last Bandito bolt to a sugary .75 crack out left then taking a hand crack (don’t place gear here) to a mantel below the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Lots of rivet hangers, some bolts (one new), SR (85’)
P3: C2 More bolt ladder (some missing, lassoed several eyelet bolts with tag line) to anchor on slab/ledge. Don’t belay here. Instead, aid a left-angling, deteriorating crack out left for 30ft to the summit. Lots of bolts and rivets, Rack to #4 Camalot (80’)
Descent: Summit was very solid (for the Rez anyway) and not a garden as described in Desert Rock. We wrapped the summit with about 40ft of webbing to back up the four pins and a bolt anchor on the true top. One double rope rappel to the top of the first pitch, then another rap to the ground. Dec 16, 2017