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Routes in Donald Duck

Cha Cha, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knackered T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northeast Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown off-width T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Larry Kline, Keith Wrolstad, Summer of Love
Page Views: 2,132 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 14, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This excellent line is one of the best easy pitches in the Sandias, and with a killer summit to boot!

Begin on the NE side of the tower, below a beautiful red dihedral. Jam the stellar corner (mostly hands) for 60 feet with perfect pro. When the corner peters out, traverse right a few feet to easier ground and corkscrew up to the summit.

There is no fixed gear on the summit, but its easy to scramble down the S side of the pillar.

Location

NE corner of Donald Duck.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, mostly hand-sized.

Photos

Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
5.8-
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
5.8-
There would be no shame in upgrading this pitch. NE Corner was my second climb in the Sandias. In 1974 my partner & I came across a mutual friend (Paul Seibert) who had just led it. His wife (Linda) could not follow. I graciously volunteered thinking it would be at least a good warmup for our own project that day, Mexican Breakfast Crack. Instead it darn near ruined my self esteem for that second ascent. At the top Paul suggested it was a tad harder than 5.6. And I timidly agreed. 5.8- seems a reasonable rating against a potential sandbag.... Mar 28, 2013
Karl Kiser
  5.7+
Karl Kiser  
  5.7+
The climb indeed takes doubles of red/gold/blue Camalots. But a set of hexes (9-11) on cord lightens the rack. One can place a few medium cams on the route and at the anchor below Donald Duck. The rating is old school and is actually a little harder but part of the divergence of opinion relates to the crack characteristics of the climb. Jul 20, 2012
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.7+
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.7+
The broken-off part of the dead aspen has been removed. Can descend on either side of the part of the tree that is currently standing.

I agree about having lots of hand-sized pieces. Of BD C4's, I had two #1's, three #2's, and two #3's. I used them all. Could have used a #4 near the top of the vertical line. Jul 19, 2009
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Felt pretty hard for 5.6, unless we went up the wrong dihedral (see my photo). Felt more like 5.8 to me. Oh well... I would not want to go up this as a beginner leader thinking it's super mellow. There is plenty of gear though so...

Rack suggestions:
You don't need any small cams, but I placed maybe a .3 and a .4 somewhere. You can place lots of #1's 2's and 3's. I could have used 4 #1's if I'd had them. You can place a #4, so if you decide to bring it you'll find a place for it.

A good climb with solid rock. Only one pitch but the summit is pretty fun. The downclimb to the south is not bad at all. Jun 11, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.7
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.7
There are a couple of different big red dihedrals/open books on the north/northeast side; some are pretty brushy, and I was about to start up the wrong one until my partner saw the correct route, which is a shallower, clean dihedral on the (climber's) left end of the northeast side. Bulletproof stone! I used 2 #3 C4's and a #4 as well.
It looks like people are rapping off a slung aspen on the east side? Not sure why, because the downclimb off the south side is still perfectly viable, except maybe the easiest line has been blocked by the top of a dead aspen that fell onto the 3rd class route. There's still an easy 4th class downclimb around that, though. Jun 8, 2009
Fritz Devendorf
Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
Fritz Devendorf   Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
We attempted this one but got rained out. For a 5.6 rating it seemed a bit pumpy, maybe I missed something. Estrellita at 5.8 is easier. Aug 31, 2007