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Routes in Conroy's Castle

A Child’s Christmas in Wales S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bangers and Mash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bullet the Blue Car S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Charlotte's Web S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clear Cut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Emil and the Detectives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Classroom, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Instant Classic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kingfishers Catch Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shaggy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Small is Beautiful S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,850 total · 50/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on May 13, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A popular climb, but not only because it's one of the easier climbs in the area. The first pitch (5.9) is a little less than vertical and requires careful sequence planning making it an enjoyable puzzle. The second pitch (5.7) is a lower angle affair with great holds.

Location

Conroy's Castle is really the southern end of the Forgotten Wall, so walking south along the base of the Forgotten Wall, you've arrived at Conroy's Castle when the climbing ceases to look like 5.11 or 5.12, and the cliff is curving around to face south. Charlotte's Web is left of the climb Clear Cut which is distinguished by having a fun-looking roof about 10m up.

Protection

8 or 9 quickdraws if doing it in two pitches, about 15 to link the pitches (which I would recommend). Bolted first and second pitch anchors. From the top of the second pitch double ropes would be required to rappel all the way to the ground, so use the first belay station as an intermediate rappel if on one rope.

Photos

ScottH  
"An enjoyable puzzle" = "tricky and spooky" in the margin of my guidebook. May 16, 2007
Scott Clifford
Tallahassee, FL
Scott Clifford   Tallahassee, FL
Don't muck up the third or so clip. I've seen multiple upside-down falls result from this, but they were OK. Oct 3, 2007
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
I only needed 13 draws to link the pitches, but I skipped the eye-level bolt on the ground and I didn't clip the intermediate anchor. A long runner on the last bolt before the first anchor would help with rope drag.
Unexpected run-out on the first pitch, uncharacteristic for Chek. The crux is a delightful and dainty section, fun to figure out. Wish the rest of the climb was as interesting. Aug 13, 2010
Adrian Lazar  
5.9+
I'm of medium height and I found the 4th to 5th bolt is the tricky, thought provoking section. Maybe it's easier for somebody taller, > 5'8''. Jun 11, 2012
Not my cup of tea. Since I am not setting my own routes I hesitate to criticize the work of others, but I found the bolting here "cryptic" at best. A bolt at seven feet leads to significant runouts above. For me, the crux occurred well above the previous (4th?) bolt and I consistently found that the easiest moves were well protected while tricky, insecure moves happened in dangerous, high positions. Potentially a very worthwhile route for those with more of a stomach for such things, the crux is very thoughtful and engaging, but it's not on my shortlist to repeat. Jul 21, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
agreed on the spaced bolting- probably be solid at the grade, especially if this is your first climb in the area. I found it very engaging for 5.9- it had my attention the whole way.

i linked pitches- 15 draws plus anchor kit is what you'll want. its probably 50m from the base to the top of the 2nd pitch (not the 37 the book says)- a long, enjoyable pitch if you link them. Jul 28, 2013
CLamb  
I have to agree with Mark van Eijk. I hate to criticize the work of others, especially when they're putting in bolts for me, but the runout between bolt 8 and the anchors on P1 felt unnecessary.

If you have a wrench, bolt 6 needs tightening. I didn't bring mine with me. Sep 7, 2016

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