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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Evans, Brian Povolny & Todd Gordon, April 1994
Page Views: 1,506 total, 12/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 12, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed. Details

Description

This climb goes up the West Face of the Los Gigantos II, which is the middle of the three giant buttes which are east of the tiny town/settlement of Round Rock, Arizona. I did this climb in April of 1994, and didn't draw a topo for it, but I sort of remember the pitches. Pitch 1; This pitch went through the lumpy Cutler (I believe it is called) layer of sandstone;....5.10 A2...not the best pitch of the climb, but got the team up aways. Pitch 2;. This is the crux pitch...it went up and right , through some thin sections, and some sections of not so good rock. Slow and challenging climbing. 5.9 A3+. We got a rope stuck on this pitch on the rappels down, and had to leave it! (So be careful) The belay is cool....5 fixed KB's right in a row;....sort of dicey;...as they are all in the same crack system, and sort of close together.,,,.maybe a bolt added to this would be cool. Pitch 3; Traverses back to the left to a ledge at the base of a thin crack. Pitch 4; This is the coolest pitch of the climb; the "money" pitch; about 120 ' of the same crack system....I believe it was a corner that took mostly all TCU's the whole way (except one #4 friend placement.)...Lots, and lots of TCU's (maybe 20-30?....we had them with us!)_This went to the summit. I don't believe this climb has seen a 2nd ascent. This climb isn't in any guide.

Location

This is the middle of the Gigantos, which are the big buttes located east of the settlement of Round Rock , Arizona.

Protection

Triple rack of cams, maybe 20 pins, and alot of T C U's. Slings
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This is a cool formation in a very isolated area. These buttes are large, and there are few if any residents in this area. We drove over and camped for a few days while working on the first ascent, and saw no people or cars, and had the place to ourselves. I believe that , out of the three buttes, the Los Gigantos I (furthest east one) has yet to be climbed. We did this route over 2 days, and it was casual; not rushed for time. The rock is soft sandstone, and maybe not the best in the West, but the experiences out in this beautiful and quiet area are top notch. Yes, it is illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservaion, but it's alot different here than in Monument Valley or Canyon De Chelly, which are heavy traffic tourist areas and populated with residents too. We had a great adventure, once again. The challenges are the climbing and weather here;...not the logistics, crowds, rangers, traffic, parking, directions.........keep it simple and to the point. May 13, 2007