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Routes in Andromeda Sprain Wall

Andromeda Sprain T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doctor Hook S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Muffin Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Old Ironsides S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
One For Thomas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children playing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,141 total · 16/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Access Issue: Private property Details

Description

P1: Climb the crack angling up and right, ending at the point where the crack angles back left. Set up a belay at this point. Be careful lower on the pitch, due to somewhat tricky pro.

BETA ALERT: from the CAMM site - People, please protect the first crux moves well, because if you are going to fall this will be the place that it will occur. Put a Large hex or #13 stopper in to the left in the big downward flair. Do not put a cam in, it will walk up and out. Also up underneath the rib that sticks out right you can place a red #1 camalot or similiar cam underneath up in there. It would be a bad place to fall and rip gear. It is crucial that you have 2-3 pieces protecting this move as it would be a ground fall if all your gear ripped.

P2: Continue in the crack system up and left to a right facing dihedral crack. Some very fun moves take you to the top.

Location

This is the right angling crack coming out of the small cave.

Protection

Gear to 3". A couple tricams may be helpful, especially for the belay.

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