All Locations > Missouri > CM: Andromeda > Andromeda Buttress

Andromeda Sprain

Name: Andromeda Sprain
Rating: 3.6

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Andromeda Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Andromeda Sprain T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Doctor Hook S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Flexible Flakes S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flying Meat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying Pete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Muffin Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Old Ironsides S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	One For Thomas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Raging Slob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Slow Children playing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	38.93575, -92.50916
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	5,089 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007
Admins:	Dave Hug, Nick Richards, Jeremy Collins Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private property Details

This area spans more than a mile of cliff line and numerous different property lines. The land owner and farmer that leased the property for crops, has never had an issue with climbers accessing the cliff, which is specifically home to the crack route known as Andromeda, by skirting along the edge of the field and not disturbing the crops. The park service does not want anyone to get off of the trail. Some property owners, along this section of cliffs, do not want anyone on there property. property owners are protected by Missouri State Law but protect yourself by respecting private property owners rights to shoot. I do not know any better way to safely view the cliff band then by parking in Rocheport, MO then riding a bike, taking a boat, or a small flying device down river, along the Katy Trail.

Description

P1: Climb the crack angling up and right, ending at the point where the crack angles back left. Set up a belay at this point. Be careful lower on the pitch, due to somewhat tricky pro.

BETA ALERT: from the CAMM site - People, please protect the first crux moves well, because if you are going to fall this will be the place that it will occur. Put a Large hex or #13 stopper in to the left in the big downward flair. Do not put a cam in, it will walk up and out. Also up underneath the rib that sticks out right you can place a red #1 camalot or similiar cam underneath up in there. It would be a bad place to fall and rip gear. It is crucial that you have 2-3 pieces protecting this move as it would be a ground fall if all your gear ripped.

P2: Continue in the crack system up and left to a right facing dihedral crack. Some very fun moves take you to the top.