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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Povolny, March 17, 1984.
Page Views: 633 total · 5/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed. Details

Description

This route climbs the East face of one of the Three big buttes east of the town of Round Rock. This is the smaller one, and the one closest to the road.

Location

Drive on dirt roads from the trading post and school at Round Rock...Drive east, and then North over to the formation.

Protection

Double or triple of cams, a few pins, some wide pro cams, and an extra 40 or 50 foot piece of rope for an anchor extention (to leave).

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
For more info, click: joshuatreeclimb.com/Stories… Jun 9, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Here's some more details; Pitch 1; 5.9 A3 up to a good ledge. Pitch 2; Free and aid up an O W crack (2 bolts) on some very funky, hollow-sounding rock, to a belay on the right from Fixed Pins. Pitch 3; goes up a splitter crack (A1) which probably would go free (5.10-5.11 ?)...near the top... cut to the left (A3) and up some loose rock to the summit. We got caught in a very violent sandstorm during the first ascent. It was epic....zero visibility, poor communication, sandblasting, howling wind,.... scary stuff for us. I originally had another line picked out......this wild looking thin splitter (To the right of this route)...I even bought a bunch of pins mail order for this line;... but it looked too scary, and this line looked a bit easier;...I'm not sure it was;...we found the climbing on this route to be plenty challenging. Our rap anchor on top , I believe, was a tube-chock on a very long extended extra piece of rope. During the first ascent, we rappelled off single ropes and left them fixed, for we believe that if we rappelled on doubles and pulled our ropes, and they somehow got stuck, we might not survive out in the storm....We came back the next weekend (In better weather), jumared the fixed lines, and did proper double rope raps. I don't think this route has had a second ascent. It's out there.... May 12, 2007