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Steppin in the Slide Zone

5.11- R, Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 4 - Windy Point… > Mean Mistreater Wall

Description

pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.

Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).

pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.

Location

left of Rich and Dave route, 3rd route downhill from Mean Mistreater.

Protection

stoppers, cams to 3", and multiple brass nuts INCLUDING two #2 HB brass nuts at minimum.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Someone replace that old bolt! This is a really classic old school Tucson climb. The thin nuts are hard to get but good but you need to be able to then clip a good bolt when you get there. classic RR/Steiger FA that deserves a lot more attention. May 16, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Bolts replaced on both pitches. Aug 25, 2017
Jeff G
Colorado
[Hide Comment] “classic RR/Steiger FA that deserves a lot more attention. ”

It’s a death route, maybe deserves some attention as a top rope. Jan 26, 2024