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Short Wave

5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 2.1 from 103 votes
FA: Chris Smith, 8/98
New Hampshire > Rumney > New Wave
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

Though this route ends half way up the cliff, I found it to be really fun with a challenging crux move and some cool 5.10 climbing mixed in....

Start to the right of Air and Pleasent Danger (5.8).... Climb up moderate moves to gain a 5.10ish section with a fun sequence.... Take a quick shake off and fire in to the crux where you will want to hit the holds just right to stick the mantel and clip the chains....

Thanks to its short length and the fact that a wall hangs over it, this route can be quite dry even in heavy rain....

Location

2nd route to the left.... Watch your step behind you there is a big drop.... You might want to anchor in on belay....

Protection

4 bolts to a rap station.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8<br>
B- Short Wave 5.11b<br>
C- Barking Spiders 5.11c<br>
D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a<br>
E- Roaring Silence 5.13b<br>
F- Salley's Alley 5.11c<br>
G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b<br>
H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
[Hide Photo] A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b C- Barking Spiders 5.11c D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a E- Roaring Silence 5.13b F- Salley's Alley 5.11c G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
Jakob getting in to the slopers on the top out of Short Wave...
[Hide Photo] Jakob getting in to the slopers on the top out of Short Wave...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

stephane Desbiens
sherbrooke
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Super Fun !! Aug 13, 2011
Matt Levine
Portsmouth, NH
 
[Hide Comment] This is a blast. Fun route that I just wish was a bit longer. May 9, 2015