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5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 2.3 from 19 votes
FA: Glen Cilley 5/95
New Hampshire > Rumney > Starship Enterprise

Description

The first part of the climb trends right under an overhang and is a bit intimidating. When you look up, you can see a few good holds and some big reaches between a few more holds that are hard to read. Long story short this part is challenging, but in my opinion not as bad as it looks. After this you get in to a groveling wide crack heading up and left. This part looked easy from the ground, and though it isn't that bad it's awkward and insecure in parts. After this, you head up to the chains as the holds dwindle and you encounter what I thought was the crux. Balancy moves hugging the wall will get you your reward.

Location

The far right bolted route at the cliff.And the first one you get to as you hike in.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is no longer the rightmost route at the crag. Rightmost route at the time of this writing appears to be Space Madness. Aug 29, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
[Hide Comment] This route is really fun. I thought the first section, moving out right over the roof, was the crux, though the last couple tricky moves on small holds are 5.11 as well. Pumpy third clip, though there are a couple good jugs right below it. Give it a go! Aug 28, 2011