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The Romulan Route

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 2.3 from 22 votes
FA: Todd Bradlee 6/95
New Hampshire > Rumney > Starship Enterprise

Description

Two crux overhangs guard the chains on this exciting climb. Easy climbing gets you to the first overhang where interesting beta or a well-placed dyno gains a jug and a mantle gets you to a nice ledge. The next overhang is well protected and so tricky (or down right hard). I don't know if I have the right beta yet.but work your way through the roof to a tricky and often sandy top out.

It's really just 2 boulder problems on top of each other, but hey we are at Rumney, is that so rare?

Location

Basically in the middle of the cliff...Just right of the trad route, Starship Enterprise (5.9+).

Protection

4 bolts to LO.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Maine working the final overhang guarding the chains
[Hide Photo] Maine working the final overhang guarding the chains

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Does this route still have a tree anchor? May 6, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] i think i did see a bolt anchor up there last time... which would help with the sandy top out... ill check sometime and make the change... May 6, 2012
Tyler Wellman
Cambridge
 
[Hide Comment] There is a bolt anchor. Apparently (according to the ARI section in the back of climbing magazine), Tim Kemple sr finished her up one day after the forest fire and the old anchor was burned! So he replaced it. Thanks Tim. May 7, 2012
Matt Levine
Portsmouth, NH
[Hide Comment] The top crux felt hard as hell and I'd love to get some beta on this as the moves I was attempting seemed harder than any 5.11a moves I've ever done. Sadly, I bailed off the last draw. I'll probably get back on this next weekend but if anyone is on this before then I'd love to get it back, you can PM me. I'm not too worried as it seems like hardly anyone climbs at starship. :) Sep 15, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I remember the section from the last draw to the anchor being hard on the onsight.
When you go back on it, look for a key hold on the left that is hard to see but once you have it, the moves to the anchor feels like 11a. I just can't remember if it's a right or a left hand hold. Sep 15, 2014
Matt Levine
Portsmouth, NH
[Hide Comment] Thank you, I'll try to look out for something like that. I swear I tried everything, haha. Sep 15, 2014