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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Todd Gordon, Henry Thompson, Lori Graf , Nov, 1983
Page Views: 772 total, 6/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed. Details

Description

This is a cool spire that is easily seen from the road between the towns of Rock Point, and Round Rock, Arizona. The spire is located sort of in a sandy wash;...and it has a small , pointy summit. Pitch 1; climb up on aid, traverse a bit right, more aid, then crawl a bit right , then more free and aid up to the top of a small pillar and a stance on the left. There are some fixed pins to rap off of here on the way down. Pitch 2 ; climb up more and belay on the left (again). Pitch 3; This is the headwall pitch...climb up a straight-in crack ( 1 1/2 " to 2"), aid and free, then traverse a ways to the right to the shoulder of the formation. Pitch 4. Climb up to one bolt (funky homemade hanger) and do a face move past it, and climb to the tiny summit. Rap from slings around summit.

Location

You can see this spire easily from the road. It is setting un front of the cliff-band, sort of in a sandy wash, and it has a very pointy summit;..like the steeple on a church. 2 raps from the summit will get you down; one from slings wrapped around the tiny summit, and one rap from fixed pins on top of Pitch one.

Protection

2 or 3 sets of cams. some pins, slings.

Photos

Climbed this tower a few weeks ago at 5.9 C1. We did it in two pitches, but unintentionally (didn't read this first) added a variation. Instead of climbing the splitter on the summit block, I stepped left and climbed a left-facing corner to the left shoulder, then climbed cracks past a VERY loose block and 5.9 mantle to the summit(see photo). This variation isn't recommended, but I can't say I'd recommend the tower for it's quality of climbing alone(cool tower and setting, bad rock).

I know some guys from Colorado who climbed this tower in the late '90s and did it clean as well. Somebody else added new bolt(why???) to where Todd describes the end of the first pitch. A modern rack would include three sets of cams with one each larger than a #4 Camalot. The rap from the summit is exactly 200' to the ground, and will need about a 10-15' piece of rope or webbing to wrap around the tiny summit.

If anyone wants to conquer some serious choss, this tower will probably go free, but the climbing is pretty heinous,loose and dirty. Apr 12, 2008
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This spire has a cool summit and is easy to get to, and is in a really cool location;...this whole area is really isolated and beautiful;...isolated from the world, but still very close to a paved road. I remember taking off my shoes to hike across a wet sandy wash to get to this spire. I started this climb with my Navajo buddy Henry Thompson, and did pitch one with him, rapped off of some fixed pins , and then came back a year later with Lori Graf and re-lead pitch one, and finished the climb with her; The summit is really tiny and cool, and even though it's only about 200' up, it seems very cool and airy. At the time, I didn't have much bolting gear;...I used an old star drive alum. bolt in a piece of electricians metal tape folded over for a bolt hanger....(It worked....)...Ace hardware stuff bolts........a sign of the times.....This is a really quiet corner of the Res;....there are few if any houses around here......no Starbucks or Walmarts too close by.....a rarely trodden place, and yet just off the main N/S highway there. It's really beautiful and peaceful here. May 11, 2007