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Routes in Steep Triangular Face

Friday the 14th S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kermit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Armon Buchroithner
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Patrick Miller on May 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED - Private Property Details

Description

This is the route on the left.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location

Park on the right at the pullout by the Beige Siphon Tube and scramble up to the steep, triangular-shaped face directly across the road.

Protection

Bolted, no anchor. Walk off from the top.

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11d
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11d
Seemed mighty hard for 11b/c. Apr 27, 2010
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
All of Armin's routes are sandbagged, that's o.k., he was from overseas. Aug 13, 2009
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
I’ve tried this climb twice; I don’t see how it can be rated 5.11. Maybe I missed something, but I have climbed many routes similar to this one that rate harder. May 22, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I tried to follow cale on a top rope, so hard not a good idea, this route was easier when I lead the first section. Just trying to unclip and blind communication, just didn't work out. Oct 7, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Congrads Farhnam, great send. now it's my turn next. So close yesterday, but I did get that third bolt crux move, and now I just have to link this one up. Sep 10, 2008
Cale Farnham
  5.11b/c PG13
Cale Farnham  
  5.11b/c PG13
Bomber bomber bomber super pumpy super dynamic! Thanks Scotty for the solid belay! did it in 7 or 8 tries! Be prepared to take some 10 or 15 foot unexpected falls! Big moves tiny holds! Definitely 11c! Sep 9, 2008
Cale Farnham
  5.11b/c PG13
Cale Farnham  
  5.11b/c PG13
Just sent this route today. Perfect weather and so far my favorite route in the area! There is 4th class off the top but kinda sketchy scrambling! I'd definitely agree with the rating solid 11c up to the the top of the bulge (4th bolt) this also being the crux of the climb! From the right pinch above the 2nd bolt, bump to a left diagonal pinch; stand up then fall back on the slopy flake. Slide your right finger to a small undercling and clip quickly! Very pumpy! Go back to the flake and bump your left to a small outward faceing horn. Bump your right up the side sloping arete to a bomber ledge get your feet high and do the same with your left! Clip the 4th. Bolt and shimmy up thin desperate edges! I placed a #0 C3 between the last bolt & the anchor kinda rubout and desperate! Your four arms feel like there going to explode @ this point! Excellent climb highly recomended! Thanks Scotty for the bomber belay! Overall prepare to take some unexpected falls on this one! 3 stars! Sep 9, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
This route is doable. Only sent the first two bolts and kept getting stuck on the slap flake and trying to bolt the third. From there felt impossible until another day. People, no anchor on this or Kermit, because it's a class 4 walk off from the top. Sep 8, 2008
Just one bolt still. Finding the rating would be nice. Allen Oct 27, 2007
Sam Miller
Boulder, CO
Sam Miller   Boulder, CO
It's Armin Buchroitner from Austria. By the way, he just did a first ascent of Lovebox (8c+). I'll see if I can find out anything about the route by the bridge. Is there a two bolt anchor on it yet? Oct 18, 2007
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
Still just a one bolt anchor, but the route is much safer now- the old bolts were a bit sketchy. Aug 19, 2007
Excellent. Aug 18, 2007
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
This has been re-bolted summer 2007. Aug 17, 2007
Glad to see someone finally posted the info on this and Kermit. They have been there for a while and climbed but no one knew the names or who first climbed them. Question- Was Armin the forign exchange student from the Czech Republic? If so, I need to change his name spelling on several other routes and add his last name. Also, there is a route on the bridge wall he put up if they are in fact one in the same. Do you know the name of that route? Allen. Oh, I do have a drill, maybe we can hook up and put up anchors or I can just do it. May 11, 2007