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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Doug Smith, Todd Gordon Mar., 1984
Page Views: 598 total, 5/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 9, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is a very interesting climb on a very cool formation is an extremely isolated corner of the Navajo Reservation. This formation blends into the canyon walls behind it, and is hard to spot from the road. When you finally find it, it is an awesome formation shaped like a lightbulb. the climb is only 2 pitches. 4th class up a ways to to pitch one Pitch one; a short bit of aid, to a 4th class traverse, followed by 5.7 hands leads to the top of pitch one. Pitch two goes up a thin section (A 2), then to an overhanging section (The underside of the "lightbulb".)....maybe A3/4......more thin nailing leads to the lower angle section and finally the summit.(Big cam near the top )

Location

Up against the mesa to the east of the highway, just south of Rock Point, Arizona.

Protection

10 angles, 20-30 more pins, many slings/sections of rope for summit anchor. about 10-15 cams, tie offs, biners. The anchor on top is sort of wild;... about 7 or 8 pins hammered into "dirt" at various sections of the summit, and all tied off together with a section of rope I thought it was dicey.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
For more info, click: joshuatreeclimb.com/Stories… Jun 9, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This is a wild climb, on some soft, suspect rock. I rated it A4, but I believe Brad Bond (Boulder, Colorado)and friend did this climb, and said is wasn't harder than A3. Climbing overhanging soft sandstone on pitons is creepy. Near the top, the climbing gets really low angle, but it's so sandy that I had to aid until the bitter end;...it was funny (I suppose) to be in aiders on very low angle rock. At the summit, there were not real cracks to speak of;...I hammered in pins all over the summit in creases, wrinkles, and seams;.....then tied them all together with a very large piece of extra rope;....the summit looked like it was covered with a cargo net. Still;, I admit, that when Doug was cleaning/following the top pitch, I untied from the anchor, so if the anchor pulled, I wouldn't perish with Doug. Then I thought about it for awhile;...I would be trapped up on the summit all alone and perish anyways probably if the anchor pulled...so I tied back into the anchor and told Doug not to bounce on the jumars if he could help it.......On the rap from the top of pitch one on the way down, I was so gassed, and out of slings, for extensions on the anchor I used the sling on my hammer, and a string of biners clipped together;...I just wanted down. This climb really worked my ass;....it was a great adventure for us. May 10, 2007