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Routes in Bedrock

Barney Rubble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fred Flintstone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightmare in Your Closet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Viper, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tim Maloney and Leo Henson (TR), Jeremy Nelson and Rob Tomczak (lead)
Page Views: 2,165 total, 17/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on May 9, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Follow the dihedral up to a bulge/roof (careful of some loose-looking rock.) Traverse right underneath the bulge and ascend a small corner (crux), then climb a long way on easy terrain to reach the anchors. Be sure to top it out and take in the scene.

Location

Rack up, then scramble up the gully to the right of Barney Rubble about 15-20 feet and walk right across the narrow ledge to reach the base of the route.

Protection

12 bolts to chains. A 60m rope barely reaches - knot your rope before lowering or rappelling.

Photos

SHOPE Christian
Corvallis, OR
 
SHOPE Christian   Corvallis, OR
 
Pretty weird crux which involves traversing under a slight overhang and gaining a ledge and then getting back left onto the overhang and up.

Optional bolts on the right would probably create a lot of rope drag and lessen the grade to 5.9.

Moderate climbers may have trouble following. Great hang out on top though! Mar 20, 2013
Tim and Todd, Thanks for submitting the info on the route, we thought it was in the 10's but not sure exactly, good to see some consensus. It is best after the crux to a knee lock rest and reach up and clip the bolt. It is cruiser after that but still requires attention. Rob and I were glad to bolt it, lead it, while D Bloom was around the corner. A fun lead. Nov 14, 2010
Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
  5.10-
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
  5.10-
Decent route and great for a warm up due to the easy ground following the crux. I would suggest hiding in the cave while pulling your rope off the anchors because of the large amount of choss on this route. A softball sized chunk nearly took my head off today. Jul 29, 2009
Leo Henson and I toproped this rig long time back, should have been a couple of bolts on top. I remember this being a worthy route, glad you guys bolted it up. Apr 2, 2008