Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tim Maloney and Leo Henson (TR), Jeremy Nelson and Rob Tomczak (lead)
Page Views: 2,347 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andrew R on May 9, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Follow the dihedral up to a bulge/roof (careful of some loose-looking rock.) Traverse right underneath the bulge and ascend a small corner (crux), then climb a long way on easy terrain to reach the anchors. Be sure to top it out and take in the scene.

Location

Rack up, then scramble up the gully to the right of Barney Rubble about 15-20 feet and walk right across the narrow ledge to reach the base of the route.

Protection

12 bolts to chains. A 60m rope barely reaches - knot your rope before lowering or rappelling.

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Sean Sussman on "Jedi Mind Tricks" (5.10b)
Sean Sussman on "Jedi Mind Tricks" (5.10b)
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5 Comments

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tim maloney
tim maloney  
Leo Henson and I toproped this rig long time back, should have been a couple of bolts on top. I remember this being a worthy route, glad you guys bolted it up. Apr 2, 2008
Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
  5.10-
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
  5.10-
Decent route and great for a warm up due to the easy ground following the crux. I would suggest hiding in the cave while pulling your rope off the anchors because of the large amount of choss on this route. A softball sized chunk nearly took my head off today. Jul 29, 2009
-Jeremy Nelson
 
-Jeremy Nelson  
 
Tim and Todd, Thanks for submitting the info on the route, we thought it was in the 10's but not sure exactly, good to see some consensus. It is best after the crux to a knee lock rest and reach up and clip the bolt. It is cruiser after that but still requires attention. Rob and I were glad to bolt it, lead it, while D Bloom was around the corner. A fun lead. Nov 14, 2010
Christian Shope
Tacoma
 
Christian Shope   Tacoma
 
Pretty weird crux which involves traversing under a slight overhang and gaining a ledge and then getting back left onto the overhang and up.

Optional bolts on the right would probably create a lot of rope drag and lessen the grade to 5.9.

Moderate climbers may have trouble following. Great hang out on top though! Mar 20, 2013
Ryan Borys
The West
  5.9
Ryan Borys   The West
  5.9
Bored and want to get on something easy? This three star adventure route will moisten the face cave and tickle that think maker upstairs. Multiple ways to handle each section of the route. Great view of Le Petit Verdon. Suggest your belay seconds for a nice romantic picnic at sunset. Check your knot before you rap ;) Aug 19, 2018