Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,016 total · 14/month
Shared By: CURT LOVE on May 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Make sure to place good gear before getting the first bolt. I always take my pink and red tri-cam, but smaller camming units will work just fine.
Notice the nice JUGS (chickenheads and dinnerplates)
This route is a bit runny, and maybe a bit dangerous.
Getting down is easy from the top of Jugs: simply rappel. Getting down from the base of Jugs is a little bit harder. Option one climb down chimney. Option two rappel, anchors are tricky to find but they are there and are located about 20 ft below the base of the route on the opposite side of the chimney. You might have to look around a bit and you can stay on rappel to find them, although dont loss control or you'll take a nasty swing, and keep knots in the ends or your rope. Good luck

Location

Getting here is pretty easy, because really there is only one way. We will start our Journey at the little boat house and root cellar near Harbinger. From the boat house you are going to walk DOWNHILL for maybe 45 seconds until you have reached a spot in the trail where you can see Outer Outlets south face very well. At this point you should have a rock on your left with a route on it called "missing arch"its bolted and obvious, also you should still be going DOWNHILL. To your right you should see outer outlet and another rock(youbet jorasses) which has fourplay on it. Between these formations is a gully. This your gully. Walk up the gully until you see a nice little boulder on the left side. You will want to get right up next to the wall(outer outlet) and climb up the gully which turns into a chimney. Climb up gully/chimney and you will see some 4-5th class steps and the routes. The first route you pass is Iron Lingerie , this at the beginning of the gully, next is the Conn Chimney, Nick of time, and then Jugs. Getting to Jugs is kinda dangerous without a rope so use good judgment and if you need to rope up do so, its 5th class climbing for sure. Have fun, and keep your eyes open.

Protection

bolts
plus small cams or red and pink tri-cams for the bottom.

Photos

I saw a note they were going to replace and add some bolts to this route - any update on if it is going to happen? May 16, 2007
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
 
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
 
This route is also a great route to top-rope after the Conn Diagonal if it's above your skill level or if you want to make it a bit less horrifying. Sep 29, 2007
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.10a/b R
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.10a/b R
The hardware on this route are 3/8" Hilti Bolts. The bolts were replaced in 1991. Feb 25, 2008