PRINT: Rock Climb Public Nuisance, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Public Nuisance

5.11b/c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 102 votes
FA: Greg Martinez, Tyler Phillips
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Hellgate Cliffs > E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Stay on the trails Details

This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.

Description

Sustained edge and pocket pulling. Much easier once you find the good pockets but still there in your face. I really like this one because its nice and sustained.

Location

Right of the shallow dihedral for Melting Into Madness

Protection

11 draws plus two for the anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The routes are very close together in this area

Ex post cruxo...

Finishing up...

Starting up Public Nuisance.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Martinez
Salt Lake City, UT

5.11c

11 bolts & anchors Sep 4, 2007

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT

5.11c

All the moves are easier than on the 11b to the right but it's more sustained. Dynamic moves at the start then a really cool crux sequence followed by a whole lot of keeping-it-together climbing.
Best on Melting Mud? Jul 17, 2009

Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT

5.11c PG13

Boisall said it well. This was more sustained than the 11.b that shares the same anchor. What I like most about this climb is that it has a good mix of tiny pockets, crimps, and lie backs.

Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites. Aug 14, 2010

Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT

5.11c PG13

Did this climb again today. I was hoping this whole area would clean up more this year, but it seems way chossier this year than last. I broke off one of the big flakes near the top. Luckily, it is close to another solid flake, and it shouldn't change the grade, but don't stand below climbers on this wall. Jul 21, 2011

Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City

5.11c

Not loose or chossy... really fun route with two good sporty cruxes requiring some cool footwork. Pretty sustained. Shares anchors with Doner. Super fun and definitely would recommend for those climbing in the upper .11 grade. Oct 2, 2011

BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah

5.11c

Having bolted with Greg for years now I wouldn't consider anything he puts up as PG13, he's one of the safest router developers I've climbed with. May 15, 2012

Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT

Great pump, I had to really work for this onsight. came very close to blowing it in the upper section. Keep your eyes on the foot work and the crimps will present themselves. Definitely not PG13, if the bolts were any closer I would struggle to avoid z clipping. 5.11 Jul 15, 2014

Dan Berger
SLC, UT

5.11c

Great route, a little easier once you find the good holds. Some big moves to good pockets, with lots of crimps in between. Some decent spots to shake out throughout the climb. Jun 13, 2018

Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT

5.11b

Easier side of 11b/c for sure. It's crazy how much these routes have changed from the FA days. Jul 13, 2022

Noah Grage
Colorado Springs. Co

In my opinion, the best route on the wall and deserving of 4 stars. clean route with nice movement. I will say the 11b to the right, “brain doner”, felt more difficult to me. I found myself more pumped at the chains and the crux felt more distinct. This route felt closer to 11a/b than 11c to me. Still, both are very nice routes. Aug 4, 2022