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Routes in Rockfellow Dome

Abracadaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Zzzzzs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jabberwocky T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Knead Me 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labyrinth, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lumpy Unmentionables T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Sensory Desuetude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Unknown S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (NE Face) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown (S Face) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, 1984
Page Views: 2,440 total · 19/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 8, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Climb the first 70' of the inner passage to the base of the route. pitch 1, climb the 40' corner with pin to low angled slab above (5.11-PG/R?). pitch 2, this brilliant face is poorly protected and finishes at the top of pitch 2 of Knead Me (45m, 5.10 X). Note: there has not been a second ascent of the second pitch.

Location

20' right of the Knead Me alcove is the start to the inner passage. This is the first route one encounters entering from north side.

Protection

3 sets of TCU's and 1.5 friend. Stoppers and brass nuts might work on second pitch, but may be too hard to place.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d X
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d X
Thanks, Alex!
Some info on the route:
The first pitch is definitely not .11-, more like .11+, possibly .12-, depending on how you do the traverse. The climbing itself is really good and includes technical stemming, laybacking, some burly chimney-esque moves, and a super-delicate and burly traverse/mantle to finish. The rock quality isn't great, but it isn't horrible, either. Geir and I definitely cleaned up most of what needed to come off. The pitch also protects really well, but it does take some work to find the good gear in a few sections. Of note: near the end of the pitch there is a large flake that takes hand-sized pieces to protect the traverse. The flake itself is relatively thin in places, and a long enough fall onto a cam could very well result in its breaking. As such, Geir and I opted to use a hex instead of a cam (which is completely bomber). If you plan on doing the first pitch it would be much appreciated if you, too, would use a hex, or a sufficiently large nut, in lieu of a cam.
The second pitch is certainly dangerous, but perhaps not as dangerous as rumor has had it. The pitch is ~140' with two bolts and two bomber chickenheads, so there's an average of 35' between placements. Falling in certain spots would definitely not be good, but whether or not it would result in hitting the buttress below the route is not certain. Either way, the pitch is not to be taken lightly. The climbing for the first half or so is on low-angle slab, with multiple sections of.10. After the second bolt things ease up a bit and eventually lead to a highway of chickenheads and easier climbing with only a few sections of .8/.9 to the anchors. The anchor is shared with Knead me and has one fixed pin and a flake that takes 1"-2" pieces.
Gear:
Doubles to 2" and a good assortment of nuts will be more than sufficient for the route. There is an optional 4" placement on the first pitch, which is otherwise protected with a few micro cams. Oct 16, 2015
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
Word on the street is that the second pitch recently got a second and third ascent. Well done, Geir and Austin! We may have our differences but this is an incredible accomplishment and props are absolutely due. Oct 15, 2015
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Attempted this last spring, while in search for Sound of One Hand. 1st is a bit crumbly with some chunks that pulled out, punting me off. We got up and started the 2nd(low angle slab) and quickly retreated with our tails tucked between our legs. Gear in description seemed on par, at least for p1. tread lightly on p1 Jul 16, 2015