Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta & Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,016 total · 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 7, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

A very unique sport climb. A mix of sidepulls and underclings with some technical and sequency moves thrown in. You would normally expect to find moves like this while traversing under a roof on a trad climb.

Start up a blunt arete on easy ground past the first bolt to the second bolt. Now take a deep breath and figure out where your going. From here continue left past three bolts trying to stay fresh as each moves is harder than the last. The last clip on the traverse is quite difficult but the previous clip isn't far away.

Next pull the crux moves straight up over the bulge, grab a jug clip the sixth bolt and head to the anchors.

Now the next crux is cleaning the route. Proficient use of a stick clip is nice to get the first draw, or just boulder up to get it. Beware of the swing back into the wall behind.

Location

Far right side of the wall. Hard to miss, look for the overhanging horizontal crack.

Protection

6 Bolts to Chain Anchors

Photos

HoseBeats  
 
Really fun and unique like DTP states. Good footwork will get you through the traverse without wasting too much energy. Find a creative rest at the last bolt of the traverse before heading up the stopper move (v4ish?) to the jugs above.
If Bananas on Acid is 12a then this is at least one grade harder. Jan 3, 2009