All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area… > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon,… > Gemstone East
Avg: 2.2 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Mark Leonard, Mike Darrah '87|
|Page Views:||3,223 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on May 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThe old Louck's guide shows Surf Naked as a 3 pitch climb. Monomaniac posted pitch 1 in May 2007 and marked it in the first photo below. And n June 2011, pitches 2 & 3 were also posted; see the second photo below. There are a variety of ways to fill out the rest of the day after climbing this route; see discussion after the route discription.
P1: Traverse left onto the large slab to a black water streak, then head straight up, passing a bolt. After a couple 5.7 moves followed by increasingly easy runout, the route leads into the large left-facing dihedral which offers excellent pro, and the occasional face hold. Mostly great slabbing leads up to a ledge on the dihedral, where the crack thins and the liebacking becomes more intense. One more ledge leads to a cool cave crawl-through or tunnel to a rap anchor. This pitch is about 150 feet.
P2: From the east end of the tunnel (i.e., up-canyon end), head up and left until you've passed over the dirt, vegetation, and hollow-sounding blocks of rock. Set a belay at roughly 60 feet while still easily within sight of the tunnel shown in the next photo. 5.1?
P3: Excellent rock. Continue up and left following a pinched-down crack that opens to hand sized (5.7). Leave that weakness when you find a rightward crack wandering up on increasingly runout terrain as the difficulty eases some; this last section has vegetation running on your right. The pitch ends at a very ample belay ledge in a kind of slot; 100+ feet?
WHAT TO DO NEXT?
OPTION 1: At the ledge at the top of pitch 3, which is the end of Surf Naked per Loucks, sometimes there will be webbing on a refrigerator-sized rock and sometimes not. Louck's guide shows a 165 foot rap followed by 3rd class downclimb to the tree at the top of Revenge of the Elderly's P1. From there, Loucks shows a second 100 foot rap to the ground.
OPTION 2: We downclimbed climber's right about 15 feet and then up and rightward on slabby runout terrain (5.5?) until we joined the top of Revenge of the Elderly. After a couple 5.7 moves remaining, we rapped Revenge. The joining with Revenge is just above that little tree on P4.
OPTION 3: Alam points out that another alternative after finishing Surf Naked is to climb Surfs Up, 5.8R: "From the belay at the end of P3 (nice nut is slot) attack the arete. There are 2 or 3 1/4 inch bolts on this arete, then move left to the face to climb up to a ledge. The belay was a set of slings around a root and a piton. May want to improve on this. The rappel from this point can get you to the R.of E. top belay (with effort). We always found it easier to belay part way down Revenge and climb that route." See the below photo courtesy of Alam.
Alam also points out "... we have also climbed an additional 2 pitches ... but never found anything worth writing home about, but if you are into Sandia adventure...."