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Routes in Madness Buttress
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Cleveland Steamer T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Territory of the Mad T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Yogini T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James and Franziska Garrett, Julia "The Yogini" Geisler and Will Maxwell, 29 April 2007 |
| Page Views: | 84 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on May 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Description
Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer! May be climbed in one long pitch, but beware of rope drag.
Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.
Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.
Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.
Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.
Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.
Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.
Thanks! Mar 21, 2008
Small Lake, UT
P2 is one of the best face climbing pitches I've done anywhere. I'm still amazed it links a whole bunch of features together through the steep blank headwall. Tiny crimps, deep 2 finger pockets, weird sidepulls, smears, a bunch of press moves, a finger crack... It's all there with great exposure to boot.
I placed mostly small cams and nuts, can't remember the largest piece. Loved the last bolt too... Jun 15, 2009
Park City
I should have payed more attention to the comments about the top anchor, as we couldn't find one and ended up walking off to the South and down the next gully, rapping once from a poorly fixed nut(downclimbing this step may be possible). Oct 16, 2009
Park City, Utah