Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, Julia "The Yogini" Geisler and Will Maxwell, 29 April 2007
Page Views: 237 total · 2/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 7, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer! May be climbed in one long pitch, but beware of rope drag.

Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.

Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.

Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.

Location

Walk around the corner left side of Madness Buttress.

Note that this starts on a second-level ledge or tier. If you're looking at a bulge and thinking, "There's no way that's 5.9..." and "where're the bolts" then head left and up to the next level.

Protection

QDs. Bolts supplemented by gear on the SE corner of the Madness Buttress. A few micro to small cams to #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt belay stations at each anchor. Drilled on the lead. Well protected.

Photos