Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, Julia "The Yogini" Geisler and Will Maxwell, 29 April 2007
Page Views: 112 total · 1/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 7, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer! May be climbed in one long pitch, but beware of rope drag.

Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.

Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.

Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.

Location

Walk around the corner left side of Madness Buttress.

Note that this starts on a second-level ledge or tier. If you're looking at a bulge and thinking, "There's no way that's 5.9..." and "where're the bolts" then head left and up to the next level.

Protection

QDs. Bolts supplemented by gear on the SE corner of the Madness Buttress. A few micro to small cams to #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt belay stations at each anchor. Drilled on the lead. Well protected.

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Approaching the top of the first pitch.
Approaching the top of the first pitch.
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About 1/2 way up the second pitch.
About 1/2 way up the second pitch.
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Yogini marked on the left side of the Madness Buttress with Quartermoon in the foreground
Yogini marked on the left side of the Madness B…
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5 Comments

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grk10vq

grk10vq    
There is no anchor directly on top. You can protect the final moves with some small gear, then traverse, and end on TOTM/CS anchors. Mar 21, 2008
James Garrett
  5.10b/c
James Garrett  
  5.10b/c
TOTM anchors at the top serve as the final belay for this climb seemingly OK, don't they? There are probably only one set of anchors on top. Did you think the grades were correct?
Thanks! Mar 21, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Classic route, my favorite so far @ Ibex. The crux on P1 is awkward and committing, the kind of bouldery stuff you don't expect to encounter on a route. There's a bolt right there so you won't go anywhere if you blow the delicate sequence.
P2 is one of the best face climbing pitches I've done anywhere. I'm still amazed it links a whole bunch of features together through the steep blank headwall. Tiny crimps, deep 2 finger pockets, weird sidepulls, smears, a bunch of press moves, a finger crack... It's all there with great exposure to boot.

I placed mostly small cams and nuts, can't remember the largest piece. Loved the last bolt too... Jun 15, 2009
Craig Martin
  5.10c
Craig Martin  
  5.10c
Great route. I would call the 1st pitch 5.10c.

I should have payed more attention to the comments about the top anchor, as we couldn't find one and ended up walking off to the South and down the next gully, rapping once from a poorly fixed nut(downclimbing this step may be possible). Oct 16, 2009
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
  5.10c
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
  5.10c
I found the first pitch to be more like 10b/c. Fun climb! May 3, 2012