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Toe The Line

5.10b, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 157 votes
FA: P1: Ron Olsen, Mike Amato, and Bruno Haché, 5/6/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/13/07
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Tonnere Tower > Sport Land
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Description

Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.

Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.

P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt. At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right. Clip the sixth bolt on the left side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.

P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is not the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.

Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.

Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.

Location

The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the ?beta photo?. Follow the Sport Land approach.

Protection

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts indicated.
[Hide Photo] "Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts indicated.
Evan cruising up P2 (as seen from P1 anchors).
[Hide Photo] Evan cruising up P2 (as seen from P1 anchors).
Bob cruising up Toe the Line.
[Hide Photo] Bob cruising up Toe the Line.
Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to her left.
[Hide Photo] Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to her left.
Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
[Hide Photo] Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
Low on the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Low on the first pitch.
Cory, toeing the line.
[Hide Photo] Cory, toeing the line.
Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intended to be climbed.
[Hide Photo] Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intended to be climbed.
At the third bolt.  I think going left around the arete here is why the route only felt 5.9+ or so.  Sounds like the .10b crux is straight up past the bolt, but there are great holds around to the left.<br>
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Photo by Eva R.
[Hide Photo] At the third bolt. I think going left around the arete here is why the route only felt 5.9+ or so. Sounds like the .10b crux is straight up past the bolt, but there are great holds around to the…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds. Aug 3, 2007
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.

The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?) Aug 22, 2007
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession. Aug 20, 2008
Tombo
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't read the description very well and went right onto Tag Team after the 5th bolt on the 1st pitch so I'll have to go back and do it straight up. The crux at the third bolt can be climbed 10a by staying to the right of the bolt, or if you use the holds on the left of the arete I thought it was 5.9. Of all the pitches I've climbed on Tonnere I felt this route was truest to its original grade. Oct 4, 2008
Dustin Scow
Denver, CO
5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] By staying on the face and clipping the third bolt and then continuing on the face to the 4th bolt, I felt that this was much harder than a 5.10b. I would rate those two bolts (from 2-3 and 3-4) as a 5.10d and the rest as around a 5.10a/b. Also, I felt that after the arete, when you throw a high right foot and step up, that this was a fairly committed move with slabby feet and not extremely positve hands. A bit of a balancing act for the whole climb. Aug 13, 2011
D S
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] As of July 2012, right before topping out at the P1 anchors, there is a smallish prominent "tooth" that would be a sweet jug right on the route, except it's loose. It holds a decent-sized boulder in place, otherwise I would've cleaned it off. Chalked it up with an X. If you pull it, it will go right at your belayer. Just be careful. Jun 30, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun fun route! Use both sides of the arete as necessary; not only keeps the route at grade (although it felt way easier than .10b when I on-sighted; my friends disagree), but the airyness while switching back and forth is what makes the climb so fun! Great second pitch - I look forward to leading that next time. Jul 3, 2012
a Ball
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Loose tooth right below p1 anchors is still there. It is pretty loose and is wedged between solid rock and a much larger also loose block. If either of these loose blocks comes free, it will probably be bad for the belayer. Jun 5, 2015
Xan Mitkus
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Loose tooth still at the top as of 5/22/2016. Fun line, pretty scary for the grade! May 23, 2016
Mike Olson
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Super fun route, pretty stout for the grade. Tried to pull out the loose block before the first belay, but it's sort of trapped in its container - at least for now. Jul 9, 2018
Alan Long
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun route. P1 definitely had an adventure feel to it. The bolt halfway up was very loose. I hand tightened the nut, but if someone's planning to go up, it wouldn't hurt to put a lock washer on it on the way down. Thought P2 was excellent! Sep 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb with a beautiful view of the falls at the top of P2! There is a loose rock at the top of P1 as you pull on top of the arete to the anchors - be careful! It’s about 18”x12”x10”. Jun 19, 2022