Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: ? (Toe Jam, Keith Rajala, Ken Willis) ?
Page Views: 1,042 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on May 6, 2007 with updates from Kate Lynn and 1 other
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is a great 5.7 hand crack. Start up the deep dihedral to to an obvious hand crack just past the wide ledge on the right (~2/3rds up).

Location

South of the Main Wall of Burgers and Fries. Head up a small side trail through the trees, and go right at the wall. You will come to a left-facing groove/dihedral. The dihedral is the start for Gollum. The groove to the left is the start for Bilbo Baggins (5.9, another great hand-crack).

Protection

Standard Rack to 3 inches. Belay off trees, or (with a directional) off the two bolts to the right (above Bilbo Baggins).

Photos

Jason4Too
Bellingham, Washington
 
Jason4Too   Bellingham, Washington
 
After watching friends try to live in the inside corner of the crack on the first half I found a way to stem up and avoid the dirty grovel. It makes the route very enjoyable and the hand crack at the top is great! Sep 25, 2015
Chris W
Somerville, MA
 
Chris W   Somerville, MA
 
I thought the hand crack on the top of this climb was great. The chimney grovel is worth it! In the North East this would be a delightful little climb thanks to the high quality crack above. In Squamish where such crack is plentiful I can see why the grovel is not quite worth it, but it is such a nice hand crack. Aug 1, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.6
The route as described (and shown in Christopher's photo) is listed as "Sour Grass" in the 2012 Bourdon guide, with a listed FA Travis Sanwald 2010.

Gollum is described in the 2004 McLane guidebook as "Starting a couple meters *left* of Bilbo (Baggins), stay in left-leaning cracks to reach easier cracks above" (Toe Jam, Jarala, Willis 1982). This seems to describe the left-leaning crack system that climbs into Split Personality, not the fists dihedral to hand-crack described.

Sour Grass was pretty solid though. Good fists in a groove for a bit, then hand jams to the top. Suggest a single rack from #0.75 - #4 Camalots. Feb 13, 2018