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Routes in Miscellaneous Lower Blair routes / problems

Buck Shot T V2 5+
Crack Named Sue T V5 6C
Knockin' on Heaven's Door T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
University of Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4 6B
Type: Trad, Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,608 total, 13/month
Shared By: JNE on May 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is an absolute classic. Start at the very far end of the roof and work your way through some offwidth moves which narrow to fists and then hands which just keep getting deeper as you go. Near the lip there are some interesting fins to negotiate. You can also go out the back side, which is a problem in its own right called "The Dark Side of Mars" which goes at about 11+. For that version, start at the lowest point in the roof and climb out from there. The rock is especially sharp, so bring tape. Perhaps the name is in reference to Vedauwoo crack climbing in general.

Location

Park at the end of the lower Blair parking lot. This problem is up on the shelf that is a couple hundred feet to the north east of the parking lot, and it generally faces south.

Protection

A pad or two and some spotters for the lip. Most of the roof is only a few feet above a shelf so if you fall off it is no big deal. However the shelf drops off at both ends of the roof, leaving a not so good landing that you wouldn't really want to fall on to. Also, the rock on this is a wee bit crunchy, so be careful about what you put your feet on when pulling either lip and topping out.

Photos

bart cubrich 1  
  V4
This route could be done unpadded, because the only place you could fall far enough to need a pad you just don't want to fall. Not a great landing, but this route is awesome! Aug 21, 2014