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Routes in Elephant Butte

North Gorge Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1
Standard (West Fins) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,088 total, 16/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

There is a vague discription of this route in Desert Rock;...this is more of an "adventure" than a climb. There is route finding, decisions, questions, trail and error, and maybe even luck to get to the summit;...which is the objective of this adventure. There is a small bolt ladder to ascend, a rappel or two, lots of scrambling, perhaps batman a short fixed rope....all sorts of stuff. Go for it!

Location

I can't even give a "crap" description, for I haven't a clue;....I just followed someone who knew the way.....See Eric's Desert Rock, p. 199, and good luck! Don't be discouraged by lack of info;....that's all part of the adventure with this one.....maybe ask at the Visitor's Center too?....or hit up a knowlegable Ranger.....

Protection

Bring a small rack of your choice. At one point , there are 5 bolts which need to be used to ascend and they might not have hangers...so maybe some stoppers or tie-offs for the studs are needed. I think there is also one section where you might need a 40-50 ' piece of rope to rap or batman down, and then use on the way back out..... it might be fixed, but it might not be.

Photos

Bag42
 
Bag42  
 
We did this route in late July with a thunderstorm rolling up and night closing in. So. Awesome. I'll say, when the wind gets going, all the sand blowing makes it hard to see, but the view from the top is definitely worth the adventure.
Aug 23, 2013
we took a canyoneering loop up to the summit. it was wondery and had a rappell before heading up toward the summit. amazing view... the highest point. massive amount of rock. Oct 15, 2008
There's a nice description on summitpost.org

I don't recommend it in the rain - everything gets very slippery. May 9, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I did this climb with Ranger Steve Swanke, and two of his friends in March of 1983. Steve had already been to the summit, so we all just followed him on this adventure. Even though Eric's book says grade II, I don't remember it taking THAT long or being THAT involved;....it did wander all over the place, through some wild and beautiful and interesting terrain....one section in a slippery sandstone bowl was particularly beautiful and interesting.... I know my description is very vague, but I am posting this anyways, hoping that someone can add more detail to this description; someone who has done the route in the last decade, hopefully. Remember to read Eric's description in Desert Rock on p.199. Maybe reading this description will plant a seed of curiousity, and start the wheels turning for someone who wants this adventure.....If no one adds more detail to this description, then I guess you are on your own;.....maybe that aint' so bad a thing........... May 5, 2007