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Scalpel
5.8,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
FA: Joe Rousek, 1991
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Rob's Rock
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Listed as 5.8R in the guidebook, it actually has 4 bolts and though not as well protected as Blades of Glory, isn't very runout. The crux comes around the second bolt.
A second pitch is registered as a project and will probably never be completed. You can, however, climb the first four bolts of it and lower off if you want.
Location
Left and uphill from Blades of Glory. Climb the left crack to bolted face.
Protection
4 bolts and pro to 1.5".
[Hide Photo] Scalpel and Blades of Glory the twin crack climbs of Rob's Rock.