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Routes in Park Avenue

Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamburger, The T C0 PG13
Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Bepler, Kyle Copeland, Dec., 1988
Page Views: 1,110 total, 9/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 3, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is located just out of the parking lot on the left. It goes to the top of the formation. It has a very short approach. The crux is the first 20 some feet,... maybe the first 3 placements, which is a shame, because doing dicey aid right off the ground can be dangerous. You have to do something with these sort of blow out holes;....I used those funky-looking big-ol'pika hooks...(toucans, I believe they are called...).....they look wierd but they worked;...I would imagine regular hooks would be too small.....even though the Pika hooks worked;...I was scared non-the-less. (I borrowed them from Dana;..I had never used them before...) I suppose you could just climb the 5.9 Cinnamon Rose, which goes to the same belay, and then do the rest of the Tilting at Windmills......but then, you wouldn't really be doing "the route", would you? The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start?


Photos

steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
I looked at the first pitch and it looked like it could be an awesome free climb. If I find the time I'll head down there and give it a go. Apr 16, 2014
Nate26  
anyone led the first pitch free? Tred it and it felt good (though hard) after the first 20'. Sep 22, 2008
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start? May 4, 2007