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World Leader Pretend
5.12a/b,
Sport,
Avg: 3.4 from 57
votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Mondo Beyondo
> World Domination
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This is the route immediately to the right of Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth. It climbs the obvious black streak. This is an awsome route!
Protection
11 bolts to bolted ancor
Boulder, CO
Nowhere Land
A/B is probably spot on.
A if you are a boulderer
B if easy enduro pocket pulling is your thing. The steep sections on this are cruxy. Aug 8, 2017
CO
This route has really good rests for the grade, but that just shows how hard the upper crux is. Its got slab, flowy pockets and dynamic moves. The variety makes it so good. Jul 31, 2018
Nowhere Land
I just belayed a friends onsight of this route and the run at the end got his attention. Sep 4, 2024