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World Leader Pretend

5.12a/b, Sport,  Avg: 3.4 from 57 votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Mondo Beyondo > World Domination
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the route immediately to the right of Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth. It climbs the obvious black streak. This is an awsome route!

Protection

11 bolts to bolted ancor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Best route I did in the area. Sep 8, 2009
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
[Hide Comment] Not a typical Ten Sleep climb. Less than vertical 10+ climbing with healthy bolt spacing to the first break gets your attention at the start. An unnecessary runout to the chains at the top (although it could be also be argued adding a bolt is also unnecessary as the last five feet to the chains are 5.10. Getting your feet under you after the final boulder problem checks in at mid 5.11 and the last bolt will be 4-5 feet under your feet.) Clean fall looking at a 30+ footer if you blow it at the chains.

A/B is probably spot on.

A if you are a boulderer

B if easy enduro pocket pulling is your thing. The steep sections on this are cruxy. Aug 8, 2017
Andy Ban
CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I didn't find this run out at all, but I did stick clip bolt 2 until I dialed in the slab moves. The moves going to the chains are safe and there is no way you're going for a 30 foot ride if you blow it. Maybe half that.

This route has really good rests for the grade, but that just shows how hard the upper crux is. Its got slab, flowy pockets and dynamic moves. The variety makes it so good. Jul 31, 2018
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
[Hide Comment] Whether or not the top is considered runout is a matter of opinion, but it is at least 12-15 feet from the last bolt to the anchor. Could be more, definitely not less. Over three body lengths is what it looked like. Not sure how falling there would result in only a 15 foot fall, rope stretch aside.

I just belayed a friends onsight of this route and the run at the end got his attention. Sep 4, 2024