The guidebook rates this 5.2, but the top moves might be more like 5.4.
Steep slab with big holds until 5/6th of the way up where the crux and one or two climbing moves await. Great first lead for the beginner that wants practice clipping bolts and equalizing bolts for an anchor.
Good one to put the parents / relatives on.
Location
On right wall of left facing obivous corner you can see from parking lot.
[Hide Comment] i love this route! when ever i take beginers to rumney this is the route i basicly solo while i teach them how to lead belay... i say solo cuz you dont know if your going to get a catch when you look down and have to utter the phrase "oh junk! no dont do that!"
Mar 13, 2009
[Hide Comment] Good first route for those new to climbing or new to climbing outdoors, or for a first lead or for teaching someone to lead belay. This one can tend to get a little wet, but the area below can stay shady and cool on a hot day. The route thins out near the top some. When lowering, be careful not to fall into the chimney on the left or under the rock face into the cave on the right (a good tip to give a first time climber). This climb isn't particularly memorable, but it makes a nice easy warm up to other routes in the area. I suspect this route gets used a lot so be sure to check to check the hardware, particularly up top.
Jul 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] great easy route! climbed following a day or so rain and had a pretty muddy belay. i recommend leaving draws for the follower to protect a swing left into the other edge of the chimney.
May 6, 2022
[Hide Comment] Great place to take on a first lead, like really ideal perfect first lead route! bring a rope protector though, the ground around it is frequently very very muddy!
Sep 19, 2023
Center Harbor, NH
also FA was done by Cliff Mask 7/00 Nov 20, 2008
New Hampshire
Manchester NH
Keene, NH
Tamworth, NH
The difficulty in accessing the anchors at the top is what makes me rate this more difficult than most people. Oct 23, 2017
Rosendale, NY
Gunks