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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trauma Traverse. T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: (TR) Bobby Knight, Todd Swain, FL: Tony Sartin, Tom Murphy & Sonja Djuricin, April 2007
Page Views: 1,034 total · 7/month
Shared By: sonja on May 2, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This was originally done as a TR off of the Crime of the Century midpoint anchor. It now goes to the top of the cliff, joining the Crime of the Century chimney near the top.
Begin 8 feet left of CoC on a juggy, left-trending overhang to a bolt at the lip.
The climb then wanders up the face, paralleling the CoC crack for 80 feet, passing 6 bolts and supplemental gear, to the base of the COC chimney.
Either traverse left and lower off the Humerous anchor or continue up the CoC chimney to the summit. For the most bang for your buck, link this up with the 5.11b Ridiculous Finish.

Crux between 3rd and 4th bolts.

Can be toproped after climbing Humerous or Funnybone.

Location

8 feet left of CoC. Shade all day.

Protection

6 bolts, single set of stoppers, gear from green alien to .75 camalot (larger gear if finishing up the chimney)

Photos

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Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
This route, using the first 4 bolts, is a good way for sissies to get to the anchors of Crime of the Century to string a TR. Mar 14, 2011
Drederek
  5.10+ PG13
Drederek  
  5.10+ PG13
Beware the oatmeal! Its still a fine TR with the bolts, they did not bother me a bit! Apr 7, 2011
Not sure about that Russ, Crime of the Century felt easier and had better protection. Apr 12, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Not sure about that Russ, Crime of the Century felt easier and had better protection.

So you are saying COTC is kinda like 5.8 with great pro? Apr 12, 2011
Dustin Stephens
  5.10+ PG13
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10+ PG13
Hollow choss, but decent moves Oct 29, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10a
Matt Hagny  
  5.10a
A great line. But this felt no more than 10a to me.

Being a sissie, I tried TR'ing Crime afterwards, and thoroughly got my butt kicked! Sep 29, 2018

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