Type: TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,885 total · 48/month
Shared By: Ian Nielson on May 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Climb the diagonaling crack/seam to its end and punch straight up the east face of the prominent monolith below The Egg.


Follow the trail past Tom's arete to the huge boulder jutting out of the hill. Walk off.


Medium/small TCUs and a hand-sized piece. Small wires.


AWinters   NH  
Ian, that is badass, looks way scary man. I want it, see you in tuolumne... May 8, 2007
This problem has been bouldered.
Not by me. Feb 7, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b V3 R
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b V3 R
This is such an awesome line. Did this on gear and placed a 000 C3 at the very top of the seam, which only griped by 1 1/2 lobes... The crack is super easy, but pulling out of it takes some balls and is very beta intensive for an .11b. Although the gear is fairly shitty, your biggest fall will probably be only 5 feet since it gets easy right after the crux. If you're going to boulder it, then prepare for certain death if you fall at or above the crux. Sep 28, 2009
Ian Nielson
Ian Nielson  
looks like there are a couple of ways to top out. Stand up on the huge foot and bail like Bad Sock Puppet or move up and left to the obvious tilted crimp and black chicken head. Finish Proudly! Nov 24, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b V3 R
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b V3 R
Ian if I was half the man you are I might consider myself blessed, but just for the record I do move left to the black chicken head despite getting near the right arete. So in conclusion there is only one way to top out. Jul 24, 2010
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.11 V3 X
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.11 V3 X
Trad: C3s work. WC Zero cams fit but I would not trust those.
Bouldering: V1/2 R to chicken head; V3 X from chicken head to top. Jan 9, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Hard for 11-. At least the onsight burn was. Once you dial in the gear and crux bumping to the obvious black knobber I think it feels about mid 11. Gold, .3, red c3. Gear is a bit figidity and anaerobic to place soundly. Aug 8, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Uh..5.11a=V1 5.11b/c=V2 5.11d=V3 May 28, 2014
grog m  
nah son. V2 = 5.10, V3 = 5.11a/b Jan 31, 2016
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
maybe in gym rating grog. Feb 3, 2016