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Routes in To the Moon Alice

Alice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V1 5
Sobriety Test V2 5+
To the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V0 4
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Type: Trad, Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 909 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 2, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

From the parking lot, walk down and around the most prominent rock, to the West. To the Moon is the crack splitting this West face. Difficult thin hands start leads to a pod, and easier climbing (5.8). Often toproped, but originally established as a boulder problem, as it eases off significantly after 10 feet.

Location [Suggest Change]

Follow trail from parking lot down and to the West. To set up a toprope, walk W/NW through several boulders, to the top of cliff where a two bolt anchor will be waiting. Watch out for glass.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Toprope: bolts on top - approach from parking lot. Boulder. Lead: 0.5-3 Camalot.

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Expect SOLID and technical 5.10b on this! May 5, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The fact that the crux comes before you could reasonably get any pro in means that it might be more worthwhile to simply boulder it. While the upper section is tricky, if you can do the start, you'll certainly be able to do the rest.

Also, if toproping, pull the climber's rope to the left of the crack (over a bulge) or else the rope will get into the crack and make life miserable. Jun 10, 2009

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